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Originally Posted by: gwikse  Today my ac from the wall was at 140V... Nothing important has been damaged, but my fiberopticinternet,tv and phone system was damaged somehow. Hopefully the repair guys will fixit tomorrow. I want my internet connection back...
The dac was on and was not damaged, luckily I was in the room and could turn off the power amps fairly quickly. That's nothing mine is 250v 
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Originally Posted by: DQ828 Originally Posted by: gwikse Today my ac from the wall was at 140V... Nothing important has been damaged, but my fiberopticinternet,tv and phone system was damaged somehow. Hopefully the repair guys will fixit tomorrow. I want my internet connection back...
The dac was on and was not damaged, luckily I was in the room and could turn off the power amps fairly quickly. That's nothing mine is 250v Hehe, well it`s supposed to be 230V... so not all electrical stuff wired for 230V was happy... I have over-volt protection, but not undervolt protection. Time to start looking for it I think. But hey thats Norway for you, good natural resources for generating electricity, but next to Albania the worst power grid in Europe. We just put the money from oil in the bank and let the infrastructure fall to pieces so that the next generations will have paper money in the bank (that will be worth about a penny or two by that stage) instead of spending money on infrastructure now that it is possible to do so. Oh well. I hope the rest of the house has not been too affected. The freezers etc dont like undervoltages, but not much to do about that inside the house when there is a fire in the power-grid outside the house... Then a couple men arrive and replace that exact piece of wire that is burned to a crisp and dont check what caused the fire. Should be fun this Cristmas when everybody turn on the garden decorations 
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I can imagine that it hard to get the power lines into the ground with all that solid rock you have in Norway. Here in the Netherlands we don't have any rocks in the bottom. It all sand, clay and peat. This makes it easy to get all the power lines into the ground which makes them less sensitive to influences from the weather. The highways in Norway (not that you have much of them) are one of the best I've be been driving on in Europe, despite all the mountains you have. Almost as good as in the Netherlands ;-) Edited by user Monday, December 10, 2012 10:53:59 AM(UTC)
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Hi Gwikse,
You mentioned analog home theater bypass. Is there something stock that can be used for switching the audio output? I hate to reinvent the wheel. I'm thinking about designing a small circuit and using arduino to control. Thanks,
Joel
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I was thinking of using 2 sidecars for that. Let me know if you see any simple 2to1 mono PCB`s for relay switching. Seem like the simple solution when using arduino to control the dac.
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Its getting there slowly but surely. Testing the i2c extender solution now. gwikse attached the following image(s):  getting there.jpg (213kb) downloaded 69 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Nice stealth look there gwikse. That display doesn't look all that glaringly bright in that lower light picture. I'm unhappy with my green on black LCD. One side is brighter than the other, and if I turn up the manual contrast pot any higher the squares start to turn green and it is hard to read. It is hard to see mine in the daylight. I may have to think about your OLED again. I know there is no brightness control with it. How does it look to you in real life at night? |
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You could always program the arduino in a way that it turns of the display/oled after a few seconds when a key is pressed. Edited by user Friday, February 8, 2013 7:00:25 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Nice stealth look there gwikse. That display doesn't look all that glaringly bright in that lower light picture. I'm unhappy with my green on black LCD. One side is brighter than the other, and if I turn up the manual contrast pot any higher the squares start to turn green and it is hard to read. It is hard to see mine in the daylight. I may have to think about your OLED again. I know there is no brightness control with it. How does it look to you in real life at night? It is very easy to read, but at night it is a little bright. However, only the text is lit so that only makes it much clearer and easier to read. As Corpius said, my display turns off after 4 seconds with no IR activity, so the system is totally black when I`m listening to music unless I change the volume a lot. I do not yet know how the readability will be on a sunny day during summer, but I think it will be good. Much better than LCD`s anyway. And the view angle is not an issue. I can stand next to the speaker and read it with no issue (50cm away, 160cm above the controller) and I can read it from the chair in front of the computer (to the left of the speaker).
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Nice stealth look there gwikse. That display doesn't look all that glaringly bright in that lower light picture. I'm unhappy with my green on black LCD. One side is brighter than the other, and if I turn up the manual contrast pot any higher the squares start to turn green and it is hard to read. It is hard to see mine in the daylight. I may have to think about your OLED again. I know there is no brightness control with it. How does it look to you in real life at night? I think the OLED displays are far superior to LCD, even w/o dimming. Much crisper.
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Rear panel ready for order. I have ended up using the cases I allready have so the B2 will find its home in one Galaxy maggiato 283 (and a hypex nCore amp will eventually be built using the same chassis type). Front panel will be as tall as CD-covers and the case with feet will be "hidden" behind it. This also leave space above and below for ventilation. gwikse attached the following image(s): rear panel.png (133kb) downloaded 32 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Just ordered it with a slight difference to allow vertical placement of the DAC, IV etc inside the chassis. The rear is now 85mm high (wich is the same as internal height) with additional 280x10x2,5mm plates to sandwich between the side profiles (80mm) and the top and bottom plate.
Russ or Brian: is it possible to stack Placid HDBP when QP/QN`s on the lower one is fixed to the alu chassis?
The load on them will be well within range (one powering the VentusEZ`s and the other the Ivy or one powering the right side (Ivy and Ventus) and the other powering the left (Ivy and Ventus).
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Well the name of the picture say it all (willbetight). From left to right: 1. Controller 2. Above (in the picture) Placid HD to power the B2. Below (in the picture), 2x Placid HDBP to power the Ventus EZ and Ivy (lower one will then have the QN`s and QP`s mounted to the perforated chassis plate). 3. VentusEZ 4. Ivy3 5. B2 6. Otto2 (not in the picture) 7. 8804 based Mux and teleporters above it above it (1 in and 1 out). Or 1 teleporter + Amanero USB if it will fit. 8. 4x Optical modules and 4x BNC/RCA inputs that will be individually toggle switched. And 2x sidecar to switch between the Ivy3 bal and se output and the external bal and se inputs (surround pass-through). At the bottom of the picture is the bottom panel. gwikse attached the following image(s): willbetight.png (155kb) downloaded 58 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Looks good, where are the transformers?
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Originally Posted by: DQ828 Looks good, where are the transformers? Atm I am thinking of having them alongside the rack profile on the opposite side (closest to the camera). I am currently worling it out both IRL and in 3d.
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Got a nice little package containing rear panel, height adjusters (adds 5mm to the internal height of the case) and some candy from Schaeffer AG (european vertion of Front Panel Express) :) Some minor things I need to sort out as I have made mistakes in the file I sent. But its nothing that can not be sorted. Overall it looks very nice and should lift the quality feel of the component a lot compared to homemade stuff. gwikse attached the following image(s): rear.jpg (238kb) downloaded 15 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Test mounting it. No cables connected yet as there are adjustments to be made where the cables will only be in the way. As you can see in the pictures, the holes for the XLR connector I am holding are not in the right place (1mm too high). Either I use a small file to adjust the holes (wich would then be covered over by the screws) or? I am also thinking of mounting the XLR connectors from the inside of the case and hope that the screw will cover the mistake. This will lead to a more clean look I think but I am not so sure about using nuts on the inside due to the lack of space. The optical modules went in with a little filing of the holes and the error were covered by the screws. The mount hole for the standoffs that fix the mux to the rear panel also went fairly well. A little filing of the misaligned hole and that was that. It will also be covered over by the screw. The thumb screws are there for easy assebly/disassembly as the optical modules are covered over by the mux`s PCB. They also mean that the rear is a little more protected when and if I need to place the chassis on the rear panel (no scratches plz...). A lot of connectors are not here yet and the toggle switches are also not likely to arrive this side of the easter holidays. I have ordered both dual and single pole (in case I can not get the dual to fit). gwikse attached the following image(s): rearmount1.jpg (232kb) downloaded 53 time(s). rearmount2.jpg (237kb) downloaded 46 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Does anyone know where I can get a HPGL (or better yet 3d file) of the buffalo logo?
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Can you rear-mount the IEC connector?
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