Atom Feed - Twisted Pear Audio Support - Topic:My Buffalo II with arduino based control - 20Twisted Pear Audio Support - Atom Feedurn:twistedpearaudio-com:AtomFeed:TwistedPearAudioSupport:Topic:MyBuffaloIIwitharduinobasedcontrol-20:1Copyright 2024 Twisted Pear Audio Support2024-03-29T11:40:27Zhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/Images/YAFLogo.pngForum Adminhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.comfeedback@twistedpearaudio.comgwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseBrian Doneganhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/8-Brian-Donegangwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseSCompRacerhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/19233-SCompRacergwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwiksegwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseSCompRacerhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/19233-SCompRacergwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseSCompRacerhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/19233-SCompRacergwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseSCompRacerhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/19233-SCompRacerSCompRacerhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/19233-SCompRacergwiksehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/6332-gwikseYetAnotherForum.NETurn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24939:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td><div class="YoutubeVideoEmbed"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Z8lA4waRM6E?wmode=transparent" width="560" height="315" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe></div><br /><br /><img src="http://www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/attachments/diy-og-utvikling-ha-yttalere-forsterkere-etc/441229d1495147158-gwikse-s-system-en-reise-inn-i-diy-verden-b2-dachpa.jpg" alt="UserPostedImage" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /></td></tr></table>2017-05-18T22:40:25-07:002017-05-18T22:40:25-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td><div class="YoutubeVideoEmbed"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Z8lA4waRM6E?wmode=transparent" width="560" height="315" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe></div><br /><br /><img src="http://www.hifisentralen.no/forumet/attachments/diy-og-utvikling-ha-yttalere-forsterkere-etc/441229d1495147158-gwikse-s-system-en-reise-inn-i-diy-verden-b2-dachpa.jpg" alt="UserPostedImage" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /></td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24172:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>If it were 2 B3se`s it would look like this (and the difference is the added otto2)<br /><br />[attach]1886[/attach]</td></tr></table>2016-04-08T14:45:31-07:002016-04-08T14:45:31-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>If it were 2 B3se`s it would look like this (and the difference is the added otto2)<br /><br />[attach]1886[/attach]</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24168:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Thanks for the quick reply. I was pretty sure I had to use the ottoII, just thought I`d ask before I solder it in place ;)</td></tr></table>2016-04-06T17:56:42-07:002016-04-06T17:56:42-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Thanks for the quick reply. I was pretty sure I had to use the ottoII, just thought I`d ask before I solder it in place ;)</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24167:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>No. You would need to disconnect the unused source. OTTO-II is perfect for it.</td></tr></table>2016-04-06T17:37:13-07:002016-04-06T17:37:13-07:00Brian Donegan<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>No. You would need to disconnect the unused source. OTTO-II is perfect for it.</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24165:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I cant seem to remember if it is possible or not, so here goes.<br /><br />Can I connect a TTL-spdif signal AND an i2s source (sharing the D1 with the TTL sp-dif) and just select SPD or I2S/DSD from the controller?</td></tr></table>2016-04-06T16:57:01-07:002016-04-06T16:57:01-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I cant seem to remember if it is possible or not, so here goes.<br /><br />Can I connect a TTL-spdif signal AND an i2s source (sharing the D1 with the TTL sp-dif) and just select SPD or I2S/DSD from the controller?</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24158:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>[attach]1885[/attach]<br /><br />Back to the desktop DAC/AMP.<br /><br />I put a legato 3.1 into the mix. Sounds good, crystal clear at 92/99 on the volume knob <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_shifty.gif" alt="Anxious" /> <br /><br />I will have to get a small arduino and make a mini-shield to get the lid on <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_pray.gif" alt="Pray" /> <br /><br />I will also cut out a large portion of the lid above the legato in order to get easy access (using hex mesh for air intake on cars). That way it should be easy to check and adjust the legato wich is mounted on top of the reversed dac card (back to back).<br /><br />I am hoping that I can connect this with its amanero signal sent to the other dac while the other DAC can send its sp-dif signal back using one teleporter set.<br /><br />Desktop DAC/AMP w. Amanero I2S/DSD >----->------> Teleporter channel [0-2]>-------->--------> Main system DAC<br />Desktop DAC/AMP (D1 TTL) <-----------<-----------< Teleporter channel 3 <-----------<---------< Main system DAC/Mux<br /><br />Channel 0-2 is set to send from the Desktop dac/amp and recieve on the main system DAC.<br />Channel 3 is set to recieve in the desktop dac/amp and send from the main system DAC</td></tr></table>2016-04-05T18:46:05-07:002016-04-05T18:46:05-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>[attach]1885[/attach]<br /><br />Back to the desktop DAC/AMP.<br /><br />I put a legato 3.1 into the mix. Sounds good, crystal clear at 92/99 on the volume knob <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_shifty.gif" alt="Anxious" /> <br /><br />I will have to get a small arduino and make a mini-shield to get the lid on <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_pray.gif" alt="Pray" /> <br /><br />I will also cut out a large portion of the lid above the legato in order to get easy access (using hex mesh for air intake on cars). That way it should be easy to check and adjust the legato wich is mounted on top of the reversed dac card (back to back).<br /><br />I am hoping that I can connect this with its amanero signal sent to the other dac while the other DAC can send its sp-dif signal back using one teleporter set.<br /><br />Desktop DAC/AMP w. Amanero I2S/DSD >----->------> Teleporter channel [0-2]>-------->--------> Main system DAC<br />Desktop DAC/AMP (D1 TTL) <-----------<-----------< Teleporter channel 3 <-----------<---------< Main system DAC/Mux<br /><br />Channel 0-2 is set to send from the Desktop dac/amp and recieve on the main system DAC.<br />Channel 3 is set to recieve in the desktop dac/amp and send from the main system DAC</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24131:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>My "easter egg".<br /><br />I have a set of Beta 22 + Sigma 22 boards lying here, as well as some ventus ez boards. I also had a Placid HD-BP with mundorf caps. So the only thing I was missing was time and will to put it all together. This easter I had some time after and while troubleshooting a DAC, so I took 2x 45x45x0,2cm aluminium plates and made a stacked chassis out of them.<br /><br />This is the result so far:<br /><br />[attach]1873[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1874[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1875[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1876[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1877[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1878[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1879[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1880[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1882[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1881[/attach]<br /><br />I will send the alu to powder coating (ral9005 jet black), and order front and rear panels that mount to the front and rear.<br /><br />The PSU section and the amp section is isolated with plastic washer (+ one that also cover the threads) so that the PSU section will be connected to safety earth whilt the amp section will be connected to signal earth. As pr. AMB`s recommendation for the beta+sigma builds.<br /><br />The ventus is now running some burn in. The Placid is running at +-200ma ccs and most of that is shunted. I am planning on replacing the EZ with discrete ventus`es to get a discrete solution. Been running for about 20 hours now, and the case is not even warm. Touching the alu plate right underneath QN/QP it feels a little warm, but I doubt it get above 40c at any point. Just the way I like it ;)</td></tr></table>2016-03-29T23:34:24-07:002016-03-29T23:34:24-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>My "easter egg".<br /><br />I have a set of Beta 22 + Sigma 22 boards lying here, as well as some ventus ez boards. I also had a Placid HD-BP with mundorf caps. So the only thing I was missing was time and will to put it all together. This easter I had some time after and while troubleshooting a DAC, so I took 2x 45x45x0,2cm aluminium plates and made a stacked chassis out of them.<br /><br />This is the result so far:<br /><br />[attach]1873[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1874[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1875[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1876[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1877[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1878[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1879[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1880[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1882[/attach]<br /><br />[attach]1881[/attach]<br /><br />I will send the alu to powder coating (ral9005 jet black), and order front and rear panels that mount to the front and rear.<br /><br />The PSU section and the amp section is isolated with plastic washer (+ one that also cover the threads) so that the PSU section will be connected to safety earth whilt the amp section will be connected to signal earth. As pr. AMB`s recommendation for the beta+sigma builds.<br /><br />The ventus is now running some burn in. The Placid is running at +-200ma ccs and most of that is shunted. I am planning on replacing the EZ with discrete ventus`es to get a discrete solution. Been running for about 20 hours now, and the case is not even warm. Touching the alu plate right underneath QN/QP it feels a little warm, but I doubt it get above 40c at any point. Just the way I like it ;)</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24123:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Ok, now that is done (darn that was a tight spot to solder at). Sound playing from digital and analog inputs :)<br />First impressions are that I am happy with the one I have allready ;)<br /><br />Now I can get back to my own DAC(s) :)<br /><br />I am looking at adding one input to my main DAC, as that would make it possible for me to have all the SP-dif groups (1-4 coax or optical) and teleporter + one more i2s as well as the S.P.T. (surround pass through). 1 through 7, starting with the spdif`s and ending with the SPT.<br /><br />The code should be easy to configure for anything up to 9 inputs or even 10 if you can live with input 10 being shown as "0". I have yet to alter the input switching code and check at the arduino pins to see whether or not the code does anything other than stating inputs that are without any switch functionality (as it was with the B2). But I am hoping that the code can do switching in both the B3 mux (via the 4ch input card) as well as external (4 - 1 card + otto`s etc). Then it would be easy to wire it up as well.<br /><br /></td></tr></table>2016-03-24T02:43:21-07:002016-03-24T02:43:21-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Ok, now that is done (darn that was a tight spot to solder at). Sound playing from digital and analog inputs :)<br />First impressions are that I am happy with the one I have allready ;)<br /><br />Now I can get back to my own DAC(s) :)<br /><br />I am looking at adding one input to my main DAC, as that would make it possible for me to have all the SP-dif groups (1-4 coax or optical) and teleporter + one more i2s as well as the S.P.T. (surround pass through). 1 through 7, starting with the spdif`s and ending with the SPT.<br /><br />The code should be easy to configure for anything up to 9 inputs or even 10 if you can live with input 10 being shown as "0". I have yet to alter the input switching code and check at the arduino pins to see whether or not the code does anything other than stating inputs that are without any switch functionality (as it was with the B2). But I am hoping that the code can do switching in both the B3 mux (via the 4ch input card) as well as external (4 - 1 card + otto`s etc). Then it would be easy to wire it up as well.<br /><br /></td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24122:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td><div class="quote"><span class="quotetitle">Originally Posted by: SCompRacer <a href="/forum/posts/m24118-My-Buffalo-II-with-arduino-based-control#post24118"><img src="/forum/Themes/GreyGrey/icon_latest_reply.png" title="Go to Quoted Post" alt="Go to Quoted Post" /></a></span><blockquote>Most impressive! <br /><br />Will that isolator work with the Sidecar/OTTO II relays too? Nice find!</div></div><br /><br />Yea, I hope so too. Crossing fingers and toes ;)<br /><br />Todays project makes me gulp in fear regarding heat and stuffing DAC chassis to the brink.<br /><br />Opened the unit and my jaw dropped <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_shifty.gif" alt="Anxious" /> <br /><br />[attach]1870[/attach]<br /><br />Following the lines and reading som manuals I was able to figure out what caused the unit to never work; the 1.2V clock supply was not connected...<br /><br />[attach]1871[/attach]<br /><br />I am hoping that the solder break was clean and without any contact to 3,3V that is very close to where the cable was "standing" when I started troubleshooting. The clock is in a socket, so it can be replaced, but ... oh well. Time will tell (tomorrow, now I need some music to get my mind of this... :p).</td></tr></table>2016-03-23T00:59:51-07:002016-03-23T00:59:51-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td><div class="quote"><span class="quotetitle">Originally Posted by: SCompRacer <a href="/forum/posts/m24118-My-Buffalo-II-with-arduino-based-control#post24118"><img src="/forum/Themes/GreyGrey/icon_latest_reply.png" title="Go to Quoted Post" alt="Go to Quoted Post" /></a></span><blockquote>Most impressive! <br /><br />Will that isolator work with the Sidecar/OTTO II relays too? Nice find!</div></div><br /><br />Yea, I hope so too. Crossing fingers and toes ;)<br /><br />Todays project makes me gulp in fear regarding heat and stuffing DAC chassis to the brink.<br /><br />Opened the unit and my jaw dropped <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_shifty.gif" alt="Anxious" /> <br /><br />[attach]1870[/attach]<br /><br />Following the lines and reading som manuals I was able to figure out what caused the unit to never work; the 1.2V clock supply was not connected...<br /><br />[attach]1871[/attach]<br /><br />I am hoping that the solder break was clean and without any contact to 3,3V that is very close to where the cable was "standing" when I started troubleshooting. The clock is in a socket, so it can be replaced, but ... oh well. Time will tell (tomorrow, now I need some music to get my mind of this... :p).</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24118:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Most impressive! <br /><br />Will that isolator work with the Sidecar/OTTO II relays too? Nice find!</td></tr></table>2016-03-21T00:32:18-07:002016-03-21T00:32:18-07:00SCompRacer<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Most impressive! <br /><br />Will that isolator work with the Sidecar/OTTO II relays too? Nice find!</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24116:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Adding more inputs to the code for a second extreme connectivety dac.<br /><br /><div class="YoutubeVideoEmbed"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ek0bWXX7eIw?wmode=transparent" width="560" height="315" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></td></tr></table>2016-03-20T22:18:45-07:002016-03-20T22:18:45-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Adding more inputs to the code for a second extreme connectivety dac.<br /><br /><div class="YoutubeVideoEmbed"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ek0bWXX7eIw?wmode=transparent" width="560" height="315" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" scrolling="no" frameborder="0"></iframe></div></td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24115:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>I think I will try one of these to isolate the controller.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.tindie.com/products/land_boards/optosmall-4-channel-opto-isolator-card/" title="https://www.tindie.com/products/land_boards/optosmall-4-channel-opto-isolator-card/">https://www.tindie.com/p...nnel-opto-isolator-card/</a><br /><br /><img src="https://d3s5r33r268y59.cloudfront.net/71802/products/thumbs/2015-07-24T19:50:08.890Z-OptoSmall-X1-5758-1024px.jpg.2560x2560_q85.jpg" alt="opto isolator" title="opto isolator" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /></td></tr></table>2016-03-19T22:21:55-07:002016-03-19T22:21:55-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>I think I will try one of these to isolate the controller.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://www.tindie.com/products/land_boards/optosmall-4-channel-opto-isolator-card/" title="https://www.tindie.com/products/land_boards/optosmall-4-channel-opto-isolator-card/">https://www.tindie.com/p...nnel-opto-isolator-card/</a><br /><br /><img src="https://d3s5r33r268y59.cloudfront.net/71802/products/thumbs/2015-07-24T19:50:08.890Z-OptoSmall-X1-5758-1024px.jpg.2560x2560_q85.jpg" alt="opto isolator" title="opto isolator" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /></td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24114:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>No problem.<br /><br />I can check your code if you want. Just send me your library folder and ino file and I`ll have a look to see if I can be of help.<br /><br />I have some time this week end while I rip cd`s. Next week, I`m going to try help a friend with a DAC that is not working (crossing my fingers for something simple ;) ).</td></tr></table>2016-03-19T22:05:16-07:002016-03-19T22:05:16-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>No problem.<br /><br />I can check your code if you want. Just send me your library folder and ino file and I`ll have a look to see if I can be of help.<br /><br />I have some time this week end while I rip cd`s. Next week, I`m going to try help a friend with a DAC that is not working (crossing my fingers for something simple ;) ).</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24113:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Thank you gwikse! Yes that email is still valid. Thanks for sharing! I had no idea the OLED was working with the old code. I think the older code will be best for me if I stay dual mono.</td></tr></table>2016-03-19T21:17:04-07:002016-03-19T21:17:04-07:00SCompRacer<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Thank you gwikse! Yes that email is still valid. Thanks for sharing! I had no idea the OLED was working with the old code. I think the older code will be best for me if I stay dual mono.</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24111:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I use akafugu hardware and software (library) on my two displays (also rev a). So.... yes it works ;)<br /><br />[attach]1867[/attach]<br /><br />Btw, I and Robert had the code for this figured out ages ago. I am struggling to implement the oled code into other sketches, but it still works if I have the right libraries. I found that the easiest way to keep track is to keep the arduino software inside the sketch folder, ready for archive. Then if you have a HDD crash or something else goes awry, you have a backup folder with all you need. Takes a little more space, but hey, we`re not talking about GB`s here :p<br /><br />I do not however think the two i2c expanders are interchangable with regards to code and libraries. I have not used the other one since I found the akafugu.<br /><br />Btw, you have mail.<br /><br />Edit: The code in the link and the mail is the code I am running now with CE-uno shield and oled w. akafugu (and B3SE). See the last post with code for input section. BUT, there is one thing that is wrong in the code on this page, that is the B3SEpin. It should be HIGH when it is LOW, and LOW when it is HIGH. I am not 100% sure that it is correct in the linked code, but I think it is.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxY0IePfPy4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view" title="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxY0IePfPy4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view">https://drive.google.com...Py4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view</a><br /><br /><br />[attach]1869[/attach]</td></tr></table>2016-03-19T05:33:17-07:002016-03-19T05:33:17-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I use akafugu hardware and software (library) on my two displays (also rev a). So.... yes it works ;)<br /><br />[attach]1867[/attach]<br /><br />Btw, I and Robert had the code for this figured out ages ago. I am struggling to implement the oled code into other sketches, but it still works if I have the right libraries. I found that the easiest way to keep track is to keep the arduino software inside the sketch folder, ready for archive. Then if you have a HDD crash or something else goes awry, you have a backup folder with all you need. Takes a little more space, but hey, we`re not talking about GB`s here :p<br /><br />I do not however think the two i2c expanders are interchangable with regards to code and libraries. I have not used the other one since I found the akafugu.<br /><br />Btw, you have mail.<br /><br />Edit: The code in the link and the mail is the code I am running now with CE-uno shield and oled w. akafugu (and B3SE). See the last post with code for input section. BUT, there is one thing that is wrong in the code on this page, that is the B3SEpin. It should be HIGH when it is LOW, and LOW when it is HIGH. I am not 100% sure that it is correct in the linked code, but I think it is.<br /><br /><a target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxY0IePfPy4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view" title="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxY0IePfPy4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view">https://drive.google.com...Py4FclZoUjBwMWxSaW8/view</a><br /><br /><br />[attach]1869[/attach]</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24110:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Thanks! I was happy that it worked. Forget braid to mop up solder between traces on tiny parts. My Hakko FR300 desolering gun worked great for that!<br /><br />It is an old Rev A newhaven. This is the one Robert and I tried to make work with the BIII shield and older code.<br /><br />Do you know if the Agafugu TWILCD will work in place of the discontinued electroFUN I2C Extra IO? Both use serial control for LCD. I'm sure the library would be needed as well as code changes. I have a friend that wants to build a CE-Designs BIII shield.</td></tr></table>2016-03-19T00:54:18-07:002016-03-19T00:54:18-07:00SCompRacer<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Thanks! I was happy that it worked. Forget braid to mop up solder between traces on tiny parts. My Hakko FR300 desolering gun worked great for that!<br /><br />It is an old Rev A newhaven. This is the one Robert and I tried to make work with the BIII shield and older code.<br /><br />Do you know if the Agafugu TWILCD will work in place of the discontinued electroFUN I2C Extra IO? Both use serial control for LCD. I'm sure the library would be needed as well as code changes. I have a friend that wants to build a CE-Designs BIII shield.</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24109:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Looks great :)<br /><br />Nice to see an oled working with the backpack controller.<br /><br />Is that a rev c of the newhaven oled?</td></tr></table>2016-03-19T00:06:17-07:002016-03-19T00:06:17-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>Looks great :)<br /><br />Nice to see an oled working with the backpack controller.<br /><br />Is that a rev c of the newhaven oled?</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24108:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>CE644 v1.3. It works, but code is really stripped from CE328 and I imagine earlier versions of the CE644.<br /><br />[attach]1866[/attach]</td></tr></table>2016-03-18T23:51:47-07:002016-03-18T23:51:47-07:00SCompRacer<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>CE644 v1.3. It works, but code is really stripped from CE328 and I imagine earlier versions of the CE644.<br /><br />[attach]1866[/attach]</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24106:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>You are way more advanced in code than I. I really miss Robert. <br /><br />I hope your BII is a simple fix too. Right now my Placid's are all removed. I am waiting for a range of resistors around computed value to get rid of the VR1/VR2 current and voltage pots.<br /><br />Cost a bunch but....<br /><br /><img src="http://www.moondogdigital.com/images/mt-4drv.jpg" alt="UserPostedImage" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /><br /><br />I have a little over 2.6TB ripped. I did it all one by one, paying close attention to tagging before the rip. I use and like dBpoweramp. I haven't tried the Vortexbox ripper yet, but you can customize settings for ripping.</td></tr></table>2016-03-15T20:02:05-07:002016-03-15T20:02:05-07:00SCompRacer<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>You are way more advanced in code than I. I really miss Robert. <br /><br />I hope your BII is a simple fix too. Right now my Placid's are all removed. I am waiting for a range of resistors around computed value to get rid of the VR1/VR2 current and voltage pots.<br /><br />Cost a bunch but....<br /><br /><img src="http://www.moondogdigital.com/images/mt-4drv.jpg" alt="UserPostedImage" class="UserPostedImage" style="max-width:200px;max-height:200px" /><br /><br />I have a little over 2.6TB ripped. I did it all one by one, paying close attention to tagging before the rip. I use and like dBpoweramp. I haven't tried the Vortexbox ripper yet, but you can customize settings for ripping.</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid24104:1My Buffalo II with arduino based control<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Hehe sounds good,<br />I am code challanged myself, so the deaf leading the blind? :p<br /><br />I just got my old B2 card working again, I had some simular issues as you with a B3 board, so I had to get something else working in the headphone DAC/AMP while I troubleshoot the issue. I am hoping it is just replacing tridents that will do the trick :)<br /><br />But now I have to get back to the remaing 10 shelves of CD`s to rip (done 1 so far....), this will take forever <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_boohoo.gif" alt="Boo hoo!" /> </td></tr></table>2016-03-15T18:15:32-07:002016-03-15T18:15:32-07:00gwikse<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Hehe sounds good,<br />I am code challanged myself, so the deaf leading the blind? :p<br /><br />I just got my old B2 card working again, I had some simular issues as you with a B3 board, so I had to get something else working in the headphone DAC/AMP while I troubleshoot the issue. I am hoping it is just replacing tridents that will do the trick :)<br /><br />But now I have to get back to the remaing 10 shelves of CD`s to rip (done 1 so far....), this will take forever <img src="/forum/Images/Emoticons/eusa_boohoo.gif" alt="Boo hoo!" /> </td></tr></table>