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gwikse  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 30, 2012 6:32:36 PM(UTC)
gwikse

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Many thanks to Russ and Brian at Twisted Pear Audio and glt (the man behind the HiFiduino site) and Corpius (for helping me with the code), I now currently have a complete working dac. Sure some add-ons and chassis work still remain but for the most part it is working perfectly. The B2 will get a few more components to allow input switching (teleporter for i2s from my modified musiland monitor 03us + sp-dif inputs) and surround pass-through (custom relay board controlled by arduino via port expander) as well as a set of ventus_ez to have both balanced headphone output from the ivy3 and unbalanced headphone output from the ventus. All inside a Hifi2000 Galaxy 288 chassis as seen in the model (that I will keep updated).
I will post pictures of the finished dac when the chassis is done, and just want to thank Russ and Brian for the great modules and kits, glt for sharing his large amount of information/testing and Corpius for the help with the code.

Right now it is playing music and the apple remote lies nicely in my hand and control the volume in nice little steps even though the reciever is partially covered. All in all it works flawlessly. :)

Here is how it looks now
Buffalo II with Hifiduino testing

The model of it can be found here:
http://sketchup.google.c...dd614bc0906&result=4

Edited by user Monday, April 1, 2013 12:34:33 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Corpius  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 2, 2012 8:04:20 PM(UTC)
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You're welcome! like the way you mounted the DAC and IVY!
gwikse  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 2, 2012 9:17:40 PM(UTC)
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Thank you. I wanted to allow natural air flow so that the legato 3.1 can also be fitted if I wanted to. It also seem to save space and allow very short and to the point wires. I am making a temporary mount plate for them while I am still in the "testing phase". Not sure if I will use that thick plates for the mounting (but if there are any left overs from the other build it seems logical to use it). But time will show.
The B3 is longer though, so that would stick out too much at the bottom end with this case-layout.

I will work on the front plate now. The logo`s and such became awailable for download again, so now I can put some work into my front plate (wich will be made by modushop). I think you know what I have in mind for the logo`s ;)

Best
G
gwikse  
#4 Posted : Saturday, May 5, 2012 6:10:38 PM(UTC)
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Hello, I have now updated the model. This is what I want to do.

RCA (consumer level Sp-dif) +- to sp-dif mux input A +-.
BNC (consumer level Sp-dif) +- tp sp-dif mux input B +-.
Optical +- to sp-dif mux input C +-.
Optical +- to sp-dif mux input D +-.

Sp-dif mux BCK to BCK ("SPDIF 4") on Sidecar 1.
Sp-dif mux LRCK to D1 ("SPDIF 4") on sidecar 1.
Sp-dif mux DOUT to D2 ("SPDIF 4") on sidecar 1.
Sp-dif mux GND to GND ("SPDIF 4") on sidecar 1.

Teleporter 1 to "PCM/DSD" on sidecar 1.

Sidecar 1 "BUF3" to "SPDIF4" on sidecar 2 (BCK, D1, D2 and GND).

Teleporter 2 to "PCM/DSD" on sidecar 2.

Sidecar 2 "BCK" to Buffalo 2 "DCK".
Sidecar 2 "D1" to Buffalo 2 "D1".
Sidecar 2 "D2" to Buffalo 2 "D2".
Sidecar 2 "GND" to Buffalo 2 "GND".

Buffalo 2 stacked on Ivy3.

Ivy3 R27-R30 replaced by jumpers. Out L+- and Out R+- connected to XLR 4 pin Chassis connector ("balanced" Beyerdynamix T1).
Ivy3 Out L+-/R+- Through resistor R27-30 to Sidecar 3 and 4 ("PCM/DSD").
Ivy3 Out L and Out R SE to Sidecar 3 and 4 ("PCM/DSD").
External XLR and RCA connected to Sidecar 3 and 4 ("SPDIF 4").

The ground will not be switced in my setup with both SE and XLR switching.
I connected the dac to the "PCM/DSD" to be able to have protection against a
possible failure of the arduino controller at startup wich could cause damage to the
rest of my system (full volume on half the dacs).

The arduino controller will send a "I`m ok signal" to the triggers of sidecar 3 and 4 when it has
started and set volume and so on. The external source is a Surround reciever (will be replaced
with a balanced processor eventually). The XLR connectors wil be the front left/right (Audiophysic Virgo V) and the RCA will switch subwoofers (Audiophysic Rhea2).

Power and control signals are not included here. Possible shields placed between modules will be connected to chassis gnd
with wires to a common point(star ground).
Control will be done from the arduino. Power to the modules are:

1 Placid HD BP for the Ivy / legato.
1 Placid HD for the Buffalo 2 with tridents.
1 LCDPS for arduino / lcd.
1 LCDPS for the other modules at the input. The sidecar`s from one half, and the other modules from the other half.
I will have three transformers. One for analog (15V x 2) one for control (9Vx2) and one 9Vx2 for the last LCDPS.

It will be a tight fit. Any suggestions?
Are there any reason this will not work (I am not an engineer so any input is welcome)?

Best
Gunnar

Edited by user Saturday, May 5, 2012 6:13:26 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Corpius  
#5 Posted : Sunday, May 6, 2012 11:21:24 AM(UTC)
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If I where you, I should not place the relays in the signal lines, but between the power supply and ivy/legato. This way you need just one relay.
gwikse  
#6 Posted : Sunday, May 6, 2012 2:45:59 PM(UTC)
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The Sidecar 3 + 4 switch between Surround processor (when not energized) and the DAC (when "I`m Ok signal" is sent from the arduino).
The Sidecar 3 + 4 will also be switched off, when I select a Surround-pass through mode on the arduino (9+2 speakers wired as if the dac was never there).
The signal to the headphones will still be the dac, so this will also serve as way to mute speakers when listening to headphones.
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gwikse  
#7 Posted : Monday, May 7, 2012 2:26:18 PM(UTC)
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Ok then. Done.
Model is updated.

gwikse attached the following image(s):
B2duinoFront.jpg (50kb) downloaded 93 time(s).
B2duinoRear.jpg (44kb) downloaded 133 time(s).
B2duinoTOP.jpg (96kb) downloaded 268 time(s).
B2duinoTOPlid.jpg (139kb) downloaded 124 time(s).

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gwikse  
#8 Posted : Friday, May 11, 2012 9:42:57 PM(UTC)
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I made a temporary front plate and started on the internal structure work. Lots to do, not much time to do it... At least the end is "in sight".

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gwikse  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 15, 2012 11:11:19 PM(UTC)
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Ok then. It`s up and running (for now with lcdps/lcbps and coax + optical input only). I did not get a lock with optical module connected to D1 and gnd, so I will have to keep the signals in either sp-dif or i2s (with sp-dif via mux).

Ugly as hell, but the sound is great. I replaced all internal wires with Nordost mono-filament (El-dorado leads).
Tomorrow I will create some interconnects as well. As for now its running with BJC Belden 1694.

Edit: will post better images later. Phone cam and night time does not good images make...

Edited by user Tuesday, May 15, 2012 11:13:52 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Corpius  
#10 Posted : Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:59:37 AM(UTC)
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Some others also seem to have some difficulties with the optical module. If you look at the Buffalo DAC pages you'll find multiple topics with more or less the same issue.

gwikse  
#11 Posted : Thursday, May 17, 2012 8:30:24 PM(UTC)
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I`ll have a look, but I am currently using the sp-dif header for both optical and coax consumer lvl sp-dif with no problems. It will proborably not be an issue until I need to connect the i2s sources later on.

I did not see any threads regarding using Buffalo 2 + ttl level sp-dif input to D1 + gnd instead of sp-dif + gnd (but then again my eyesight is poor :/).

D1 + gnd should accept TTL level sp-dif from the optical module?
Anyone with B2 that has tried it?

Best
G
Corpius  
#12 Posted : Friday, May 18, 2012 9:56:06 AM(UTC)
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It's not your poor eyesight, but all problems with the optical modules seem to be related to the B3.
Brian Donegan  
#13 Posted : Friday, May 18, 2012 3:53:53 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Corpius Go to Quoted Post
It's not your poor eyesight, but all problems with the optical modules seem to be related to the B3.


The trouble a couple people are having is with connecting the toslink module to the SPDIF level converter, not connecting to the DAC itself. that is unrelated to this issue.

When you are connecting a TTL source directly to the Buffalo-II, you need to be sure the SPDIF switch is off, so the comparitor is disconnected.
gwikse  
#14 Posted : Friday, May 18, 2012 7:56:20 PM(UTC)
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Hello Brian, thank you for the reply.

I have totally forgotten the dip switches since I started with the arduino. That dip switch is proborably still used?
Will test and proborably get a lock later today :)
gwikse  
#15 Posted : Friday, May 18, 2012 9:01:05 PM(UTC)
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Et voila, I have lock from the optical module connected to D1 and gnd :)

Next step is to test it through the sidecar. Then with exaU2I connected to the sidecar. Using the switch sequence that glt show in his blog.

i2s to sp-dif s/w first then h/w
sp-dif to i2s h/w first then s/w

I will use the arduino to switch the sidecar(s).

Edit:
optical module connected to D1 + gnd at "spdif" on the sidecar
exaU2I connected to "PCM/DSD" on the sidecar.


"BCK/D1/D2" (and companion gnd) from "BUF3" on sidecar to BCK/D1/D2 and gnd on the B2
Seporate gnd wire from the exa gnd to the digital ps gnd (LCDPS atm).

Arduino digital pin 6 (output aprox 4,6V) connected to the "B" at sidecar "Trigger". LCDPS powering the sidecar with 5,25V (same as the B2 for now). Will see if I need to alter the "R1" at sidecar to allow it to be switched from 4,6 instead of 5V.

Edited by user Friday, May 18, 2012 9:14:27 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

gwikse  
#16 Posted : Saturday, May 19, 2012 8:40:34 PM(UTC)
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Thanks a lot Corpius. The modified code is great :D

Edit: I now have added code for triggering the sidecar.

Pin6 give 5V when I select the first input (exaU2I).
Pin6 give 0V when I select the second input (Toslink from HDMI switch).

Edited by user Sunday, May 20, 2012 12:08:41 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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Russ White  
#17 Posted : Sunday, May 20, 2012 1:32:32 AM(UTC)
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Great work so far! If I can help answer any remaining questions let me know.
thanks 1 user thanked Russ White for this useful post.
gwikse on 5/20/2012(UTC)
gwikse  
#18 Posted : Sunday, May 20, 2012 9:55:17 AM(UTC)
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Thank you. Will do :)

Here is the code I altered a little from glt`s

switch (value){
case 0:
lcd.print(no0);
digitalWrite(7, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay (Sidecar 2)
digitalWrite(6, HIGH); //GW-B2 Turn on relay (Sidecar 1)
break;
case 1:
lcd.print(no1);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay (Sidecar 1)
digitalWrite(7, HIGH); //GW-B2 Turn on relay (Sidecar 2)
break;
case 2:
lcd.print(no2);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(7, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(8, LOW); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 1
digitalWrite(9, LOW); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 0
break;
case 3:
lcd.print(no3);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(7, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(8, LOW); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 1
digitalWrite(9, HIGH); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 0
break;
case 4:
lcd.print(no4);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(7, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(8, HIGH); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 1
digitalWrite(9, LOW); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 0
break;
case 5:
lcd.print(no5);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(7, LOW); //GW-B2 Turn off relay
digitalWrite(8, HIGH); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 1
digitalWrite(9, HIGH); //GW-B2 via resistor to cs8416mux terminal 0
break;
}

I will proborably have to add a delay command while I am still changing between sp-dif and i2s.
The above code will be used to switch between the 6 inputs I have planned in the model. The dac board then only see a i2s signal so there should be no need for the "i2s-sp-dif" switch sequence.

2 sidecars with teleporters
4 sp-dif via the cd8416mux if I can get it working again. I most likely fried the chip with static a while back :/
gwikse  
#19 Posted : Sunday, May 20, 2012 11:36:10 AM(UTC)
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Is this possible to use just resistors or would you use a logic converter ( http://store.nkcelectron...gic-level-converter.html )?

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Russ White  
#20 Posted : Sunday, May 20, 2012 12:12:05 PM(UTC)
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You should use a level shifter. A simple voltage divider to get ~3.3V should work.
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