My pleasure.

DC power out is used to drive the relay, but it can also be used for other applications if one wants or needs that. That why the relay and AC power connections board is more or less a separate board. The main reason the board can be separated is to keep the AC lines away from the signal lines.

Please do contact me on my email address (info at ce-designs dot net) for such questions.

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Edited by user Monday, April 8, 2013 9:32:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Nice and sleek design. Was it a kit or your own design?

I have been having issues with the DAC turning itself on and off, it has a life of it's own. I thought it may not be a bad idea to smooth the supply coming from the SMPS that runs the MEGA. The supply is a XP Power SMPS ECE10US12

The SMPS manufactures says the maximum capacitance the SMPS should see is 550uF. I am not sure what would be the best configuration to smooth the supply (no need to get carried away :)) I have done some reading but am still lost in the woods.

Can anyome recommend a simple setup, if I used a CRC & say had 250uF for each C what should the R be? bearing in mind the supply is 12v & has limited current & I cannot afford to loose too much of either.

I would attach the SMPS data sheet but couldn't work out how to do it.

The SMPS is already installed, it takes up very little room, once the isolators are installed it will be isolated from the BIII, it will be on 24/7 & uses very little power on standby. I really cant see a reason not to use it :)

The SMPS is probably not causing the issue, I just thought smoothing the supply wouldn't hurt, if only I knew somebody who could explain the formula to me, all I need is a capacitor, resistor & small inductor, should have paid more attention at school, nobody told me this stuff would become useful later in life :)

Edited by user Saturday, April 20, 2013 2:50:23 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Finally I have managed to get the DAC inverted so the screen is the right way up. I took the opportunity to tidy up the layout a little bit, do a few mods & try and improve the wiring.

Everything seems to be working EXCEPT, why is there always an EXCEPT , It's not a biggy really just annoying. The lock LED it's working, not even a flicker, but I seem to be getting a good solid lock as I am getting good solid music.

I made the overall board a bit bigger which meant I had to change the wires that ran to the LOCK & MUTE LED's. I had all sorts of problems getting the solder out of the BIII LED connections & am wondering if I have cooked a trace, what's the likely hood of that happening, anyone know?

There's no voltage at the BIII LOCK LED output when the music is playing, The Mute light still works.

Edited by user Sunday, April 28, 2013 6:54:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Is it possible the LED is just backward? Or is possible it is also just needs to be replaced.

I checked the continuity, LED polarity and then I checked if there was voltage at the LOCK LED output on the board, there is no voltage at the LOCK LED output from the board when I have music playing.

I then turned the music off and the MUTE LED came on and there was approx 1.9v at the MUTE LED output on the board.

Thanks, my own speakers are a bit different, not to everybody's taste, although they ended up looking better than I expected. I'll post a picture later, for those who may be interested.

Edited by user Monday, April 29, 2013 1:45:37 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

I hope I'm not boring you with the photo's, one of the things I always wonder when I'm on this site is, all of these DIY guy's have built these great DAC's I wonder what speakers they use with their DAC's, I love looking at other peoples DIY projects.