Read up some more on the oled. The brightness is non adjustable. http://www.newhavendispl...opic.php?f=15&t=3631

For my use this will not be a problem, it just cause me to have to do some more testing with different levels of smoked plexi (or car-window tinting films) to see what will give the brightness level I want. The display will be turned off most of the time, so it should be bright enough for a "sunny day".

No need for contrast adjustment as it seem to have exelent contrast without adjusting anything (not even sure it can/should be adjusted anywhere).

Edit: I will try to get this code to work so that the display automatically turns off after 4 seconds (or something like that) of no activity via IR / button / Rotary encoder.

void loop() {
// Turn off the display:
lcd.noDisplay();
break;

if..... activity... then
// Turn on the display:
lcd.display();
delay(4000);
lcd.noDisplay();
break;
.....

Edited by user Friday, December 7, 2012 9:13:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Thanks again, will report back with updates.

PS. Click the "Remove Thank" button ;)

Thanks for the brightness research results gwikse. Since you can't adjust brightness I can put it back on the possible list. I have a second unattached I2C LCDextra IO board. This time I'll use a female header to make it removable.

Edited by user Friday, December 7, 2012 7:57:10 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Kewl! Now you see it..... Corpius sure does rock the code!

Here was a sample modushop sent me with a smoked plexi insert.

I assume it cant be dimmed using a PWM output the same way I dim the backlight for my screen?

That is correct. The display is turned on and off by commands from the akafugu TWIlcd board and library.
I read that some people had trouble with getting the oled working, and got a link to the TWIlcd wich show a tried and tested method to get the Oled working with the TWIlcd board and library.

I am fairly sure that Corpius could get it working with the LCDextraIO from ElektrofunLTD, but I am a code n00b, so I stuck to the tried and tested to get the display working.

And then we get to the hmmm again... (a friend of mine makes jewelary).

A shield would be great. For the I2C level adaption you probably do not want the noise from the Arduino gound plane creeping into the Buffalo. In my Arduino/Buffalo system I am using an ADUM 1250 for level adaption with complete galvanic isolation. The ground for the Arduino is not connected to anything else in the audio circuitry. This setup work very well.

http://www.analog.com/st...sheets/ADUM1250_1251.pdf

Cheers

Thomas

I'm also planning to use the Adum1250 for my diy controller and a optocoupler for switching the sidecar.

Thanks. I would like to have seen the option for controlling the brightness yes, but all in all this is a far better display than any lcd imo. And since I only have the display on for brief moments when adjusting something I wont miss it that much I think. Besides its readable in all situations and angles in my living room, wich is more than I can say for the lcd's.

Has the postman started a build with your se? Shame.... I hope it turns up.

Today my ac from the wall was at 140V... Nothing important has been damaged, but my fiberopticinternet,tv and phone system was damaged somehow. Hopefully the repair guys will fixit tomorrow. I want my internet connection back...

The dac was on and was not damaged, luckily I was in the room and could turn off the power amps fairly quickly.