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If you got the vfd working than I would definitively use some smoked plexi if I where you. The looks much nicer than painted plexi or some adhesive plastic behind it. Regarding the push buttons, ... I`m planning to write two different versions of the code. One for using the rotary encoder and one for using push buttons. You`ve set yourself some goal trying to get the electronics out of the apple remote. If I`m right than it would be similar to trying to get a miniature boat out of a bottle. Could you answer my question about the AVCC module? . Edited by user Friday, November 23, 2012 10:02:09 PM(UTC)
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The AVCC 2 has been around for about a month I think. Not sure when it came. I first read that it was ready for sale 7 nov 2012
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Ok Thanks, I`ll have a look at it. |
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Hmmm. If that display angle works this should be a very nice and fairly cheap option. The view angle on the LCD is just too narrow imo. I have one more thing to try to improve on it; flip it around. I seem to recall that when it was lying on my desktop it was fairly wide but then I was looking from below the display. I have seen the same thing on other lcd`s as well so I think it may be an option. Would require a lot of extra work on the coding though.
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After going back and forth between different designs, plans etc for a very long time, I have tested a consept that I actually like the looks of irl. "The best design is no design". The components will be hidden behind the CD`s wich will be in a cd shelf that will occupy half of the shelf depth. The components themselves are placed behind them and when or if there is a need to access them the cd-shelf will be pulled out (with the cd`s in them). An additional case that is easily opened and closed for testing and prototyping is also done. that is based on a computer case (lian li pc-v1000) that has been given to me after assisting with computer trouble and building of a new computer. This allows me to place it more easily than other test/proto solutions. The design work on front panels etc will continue, but I doubt that I will make them for myself. Friends and family on the other hand is an entirely different matter. But by doing this solution in my own system, I will free up space for building and testing of other systems without having to loose the music from my own system. gwikse attached the following image(s): visible.jpg (235kb) downloaded 49 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Thanks. If it had not been for your efforts and work with the hifiduino code I would have never been able to get to the point I am now. I used to have lots of gear, but now I just want to hide as much of it as possible. The natural hiding place for me is behind my cd`s / dvd`s etc (my "books" as I call them). Since that image was taken I moved the system so that I would be facing the fireplace (with something nice in the glass) while listening. I am hoping that TPA, You, Corpius and others will continue to develop and contribute. My only wish atm is that someone with the skills required to develop iPad/Phone and android apps would make it possible to control the whole thing from cellphones via wifi. I made an attempt to get a Logitech harmony Link to work, but the support on that in Norway is terrible (not sold on this market). And The efforts on it regarding Android compability is close to non-existing (I wonder how much Apple pay for that to be the case...). But anyway. Reading up on your site, and still trying to figure out how to do this the best possible way, but so far I like what I see and hear. Since our brain is so much centered around what we see it is hard to not be affected about the appearance of "prototyping stereo". At least it is in my case (even though my eyesight is redused).
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Just got some work on the hidden section of the DAC done today. This will be placed behind the CD`s in the shelf with power coming in from one side and Digital in from external control and analog out to the power amps on the other. The power amps will have the same general layout (power in at one end, signal and out on the other). After som more thinking and headscratching, I have decided to have the input switching in the same chassis as the controller and transmit the finished i2s through teleporters to the dac. If I am not mistaken this will also make it possible for me to extend the system at a later time by just building an identical box as the DAC and send the same signal to both DAC`s (left and right in seporate chassis). For afaik the setup of dual mono left right etc can be done from the controller and adding the addr jumper to one of the DAC boards. The i2c range extender was sent from china earlier this week. gwikse attached the following image(s): hiddenDAC.jpg (188kb) downloaded 31 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Thanks to Corpius I now have it working :) I cant tell you how good this oled display is compared to lcd. No problem from any angle either. Great value imo. Video and images coming up :) Thanks a lot for the help yet again Corpius :D Edit: note the view angles on these images... And they have been taken with a mobile phone with flash! I am not sure if any camera can do this display justice. I will see if I can borrow a proper digital camera and snap some images later on. Edited by user Wednesday, December 5, 2012 10:04:05 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse Thanks to Corpius I now have it working :) I cant tell you how good this oled display is compared to lcd. No problem from any angle either. Great value imo.
Video and images coming up :)
Thanks a lot for the help yet again Corpius :D
Edit: note the view angles on these images... And they have been taken with a mobile phone with flash! I am not sure if any camera can do this display justice. I will see if I can borrow a proper digital camera and snap some images later on. Looking good
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Wow, nice! I'm digging that display......hopefully a drop in swap for mine with the I2C LCDextra IO board? Sizing looks near exact based on pdf doc. Talk about close to home. Newhaven Display US office is in Elgin, IL. Just an hour from me. Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:05:36 PM(UTC)
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Gwikse is using it with the twilcd board from akafugu, but there is a good chance that it will work with the lcdExtraIO board. The only thing that might not work is setting the display's brightness. |
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Originally Posted by: SCompRacer Wow, nice! I'm digging that display......hopefully a drop in swap for mine? It should be yes, but I have only tested it with a different display library and display backpack. These are the parts I have used: http://www.digikey.ca/pr...D-0420DZW-AG5-ND/2626462http://store.akafugu.jp/products/26And you need to change the code and import the Akagugu TWILCD library into the arduino IDE. http://akafugu.jp/arduin....0.2-akafugu-windows.zip <-arduino with the library included. I have, thanks to Corpius ( ) , code that is running on mine atm. But it has no input selection yet so that would have to be added by you (I still use B2 with a different input selection). Edit: I also noticed that the display is not affected by running the controller at 3.3V logic. Edit2: still a shitty camera, this one does not capture green color apparently... the display is green, not white. Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:50:57 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the info Corpius and gwiske! I see the pinout is slightly different. The backlight control not working as implemented would be a no go for me. |
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there is actually no backlight as in the lcd displays, but its brightness can be set in the code. No digital pot is needed for this. Edit: the library you are using needs to be changed for this, unless you decide to use twilcd board. This is quite similar to the lcdExtraIO board. Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2012 7:45:05 PM(UTC)
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I have too many things going (scope died, Krell phono board MC issues, DAC assembly) so best I schedule a different LCD for a future date. |
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Know the feeling SCompRacer :) Anyway, I`m back with trying to figure out code again. I cant seem to get any voltage out to switch the sidecar using the method I did before. But then again, the iteaduino has been tricky regarding pinout etc. Since they packed so many pins into such a small package. But anyway, not sure if I will try much more on the iteaduino before just pulling out the old controller and testing the new code on that. Edit: typo Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2012 10:05:25 PM(UTC)
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Neem niet teveel hooi op je vork. which means: Do not byte of more than you can chew or kindle not a fire that you cannot extinguish. The literal translation is: Do not take to much hay on your pitchfork. |
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