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You could use a level shifter, but here is no need. Two resistors(voltage divider) at each 5V signal will suffice. :)
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 1 user thanked Russ White for this useful post.
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Ok. Thanks. Made some cables this week-end. Now I am running Nordost mono-filament for internal power, signal (analog) and between the dac and power amps. The last remaining part is to change the internal wires in my power amps as well. The sound is .... well beyond the system`s price range and well into the category where I end up enjoy`ing the music. I still have not connected the Placid`s so I am curious to how that will affect the sound. Now that the system is working as a whole, I can fokus on modifying the chassis it will end up in. I have two of those galaxy chassis that have been left over from earlier projects so I have the dac running in one while I work on the other. The model will be updated later on since I have a new solution to getting the internal height I need to mount the pcb`s the way I want to. That will also have a "big" impact on how it all looks in the end. gwikse attached the following image(s):  custom xlr.jpg (173kb) downloaded 17 time(s). internal wire.jpg (228kb) downloaded 37 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Originally Posted by: gwikse  Would this circuit work?  This is the exact same level converter I have at home. |
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Yup, I used the same converter to connect the Buffalo. That was why I wanted to use the same to convert the 5V logic to 3.3V to the mux if this should not be done with resistors alone.
Ease of use and I have the 3d model ready ;)
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I will try my setup with higher gain with proper resistors. Higher gain seem to give a better sound quality in my setup. I have been thinking of using fixed resistors at the input of my power-amp for a while, and today`s testing seem to confirm that I can easily run with the ivy at ~4VRMS output and still have some headroom for quiet recordings. Time to dive into the parts bin and see if I have some 180R 0,1% other than the ones in the other finished ivy 3. Edit: typo Edited by user Monday, May 21, 2012 10:08:44 PM(UTC)
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Oh well, the parts bin did not contain any suitable resistors, so I ordered a few different 0,1% metal film to try out. I would hope to awoid using a buffer on the inputs of my mono`s and lowering the full volume to a safe level is good for other reasons as well. I have done some more model work. This is atm at a stage where I am not even sure if it will be possible to do this but here goes. Front, sides, top and bottom form a lid with a rail that I will slide into the rack-rails of my galaxy chassis and be fastened at the rear. The galaxy will have all the parts mounted to it and the outer shell is without any screw holes and painted. The display and button area is covered with clear lexan or something simular wich is also painted on the rear exept for where the display is located. All will be kept flush (no step in or out). My mono`s will have the exact same shell but a different lexan insert. The same will be the case for a HTPC with usb-i2s-teleporter also mounted. Will make an enquiry regarding cost and see if it is possible or if it is just a dream.... Edited by user Tuesday, May 22, 2012 11:17:04 PM(UTC)
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While waiting for parts I`m having a little fun with it. Above DAC, HTPC Below Mono-power amps Ugly boxes behind the door to the left (TV tuner, PS3 etc) gwikse attached the following image(s): systemet2012.jpg (52kb) downloaded 44 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Ok then. The parts were sent today, so I hope they arrive before the week-end. I am almost done with the model of the external chassis that I will send to some workshops to get an estimate. But I don`t think I will get a reply before this week-end, so....
Now it`s time to enjoy the nice summer weather we are having here in Oslo, Norway atm.
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I had some problems with the highs, changed the settings on the dac. Now I have no ringing in the top-end. I love the sound atm. Seem effortless now. But as a rare added bonus to the effortness, there are loads of details in the background, but not overdone so that you end up listening to the technical side of the recording rather than the music. I wonder what will happen when I plug in the placid`s :) Edit: PS Still running with ~2VRMS at the output of the dac. Was playing at up to 90/99 (the volume goes the other way compared to the normal hifiduino control) yesterday. Loud and clean ;) Edited by user Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:39:39 PM(UTC)
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Now it`s ready for some testing of different ways to mount the heatsinks tomorrow gwikse attached the following image(s): placid test.jpg (218kb) downloaded 68 time(s). placid test2.jpg (237kb) downloaded 71 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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I'm looking forward to seeing how things progress, I have been planning on building the BII with Arduino remote for a while & it's time to stop planning & get going, looks exciting.
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That it is. Both fun and exiting. I can only say go for it. I think it is time to have a dedicated code sharing and discussion thread where we can all share our code, ideas and so on.
But then again, AC2 is around the corner (again?) so not sure how much response and contribution there is room for.
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I moved the subject regarding using the same code to control your relays to your thread. You want to be using a whole new function (void) within the existing code to trigger the relays between the IV stage outputs and the connectors at the back of your chassis. Within this you can indeed use the same code. You can also use the same circuit. Are you planning to use both se and balanced outputs and be able to break all the outputs with a single throw? I can write the code for you and comment it, because I do not need this option. I'm not planing to use headphones with my dac, but it does no harm when it is in the code. I'll create another (sub)menu, just like the one where you have the option to show or not to show all input settings. Please do remember me to so or I will probably forget. I still have to send back the broken hard disk and get a new one. |
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The sidecars should be switched together yes. http://www.twistedpearau...al/sidecar_schematic.pdfBoth Trigger 2* ("B") terminals get signal from the same arduino pin and will switch both SE and BAL at the same time. I am not so sure if the ground is switched as well. But that should not be a problem. The Sidecars do not require a lot of current from the arduino this way as they are powered seporately from a linear supply to trigger1* (VD). Right now I am using the arduino`s 5V regulated supply to energize the relay`s on the sidecars, but I will change this to get less cables running across the chassis. The code for our setups should in most cases be the same as I will also have the sidecars not energized as long as there is no 5V on trigger2* (B) I would have to have some additional code to be able to switch them off while the arduino is running (switch to my external source while still having the dac on abd listening through the headphones). Edit: Will do, I hope the new drive last longer than the current replacement disk....  I allways try to have a few extra disk`s around and transfer the entire system disk every few days using Seagate discwizard clone. The additional hard-drive is then disconnected for day to day use. Edited by user Tuesday, May 29, 2012 10:16:47 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse That it is. Both fun and exiting. I can only say go for it. I think it is time to have a dedicated code sharing and discussion thread where we can all share our code, ideas and so on.
But then again, AC2 is around the corner (again?) so not sure how much response and contribution there is room for. What's AC2?
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I think it stands for audio controller. This is the twisted pear solution to control the dac. It`s most probably similar to hifiduino. Edited by user Wednesday, May 30, 2012 4:25:25 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: gwikse The sidecars should be switched together yes. I forgot that you wanted to use sidecars for switching the outputs on or off. If you don`t want to power both sidecars from arduino and only when the relays need to be switched I suggest you use a transitor as a switch to power both when needed. You can use the same circuit like I did, but without the relay. |
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Originally Posted by: gwikse Ok then. Done.
Model is updated.
Did you every find a source for the Mu Metal shields as I would like to use some as well but have not been able to find anything.
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