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Jordo  
#21 Posted : Friday, March 12, 2021 11:55:23 PM(UTC)
Jordo

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Quote:
NO - Definitely not!

Ok that's clear thank you.

Quote:
Seeing your current build (a dual mono BIII ES9018) which looks like each Placid has its own XFormer,

Yes that's right.

As I read your previous post in this thread you say one 38 DAC provides the same quality as two dual mono 28's (IYHO)?
In that case I could consider to buy one 38 PRO with a Mercury. That saves me space for extra power supplies to power the AVCC and XO separately.
I than could also integrate the Rpi with the Cronus and the new Hat directly to the DAC.
My current rig is Allo USBridge (Shanti PSU)--> WaveIO--> Teleporter--> Teleporter --> Sidecar --> BIII. (I would like to hear your thoughts about that).

Instead of a Placid powering the PRO DAC, I might consider a Centaur. These take up less space than the Placid.
Or the LT3045 as you recommend. I see the Centaur is based on the LM350.

Quote:
f you have dual windings on your 5V Placid's XFormer then I'd suggest replacing one of the HD Placids with 2 LT3045 regs

I do have two spare windings 9VAC...

I might looking at a big makeover to do it right Think

Quote:
it is possible to replace the ES9018 chip with an ES9028/38

That's very interesting and budged friendly as well. I could upgrade my current ES9018 DAC's to a 28 and leave the IVY's in place.
Switch the two Placids with two of the dual rail LT3045 you recommend.

Food for thought. I have a few options to consider.
I might inform here in the Netherland who will be able to replace the DAC chips for me if it that straight forward as you say.
But I don't want to be too dependant of others.

Could you recommend me? Wat would you do in my case to do it absolutely the best way? Drool

Edited by user Friday, March 12, 2021 11:59:48 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Possum  
#22 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2021 9:48:12 PM(UTC)
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Yes, all of those are options for you to consider. A Centaur PS is noisier than LT3045s but fine for the main digital supply as digital circuits are not very sensitive to noise. However, I prefer the PS I suggested as it has Murata chokes that both prevent noise coming in and getting out.

Independent power supply for analog and XO along with DAC chip upgrade should make a night and day improvement (depending on the rest of your system's resolving power)

The newer chips are pin compatible. I have successfully performed the transplant onto BII, BIII, and BIIISE boards - however, the old firmware will not work with the new chips. You will need to use an external I2C microcontroller like an Arduino if you want to configure the DAC to stereo operation (default is 8 channel). See my other thread on doing this and my Arduino code library for controlling the ES9028/38. Also beware that the RESET pin must be pulled high AFTER all voltages have reached operating values after powerup.

You'd need to completely isolate the Arduino 'cos it makes a heap of PS noise that will interfere with the DAC if there are any common grounds - so separate PS, I2C isolator, and relay or optocoupler for operating the DACs RESET pin.

If, on the other hand you buy a 9038PRO + Mercury the onboard firmware does all that for you, but that's a substantial amount of money to outlay.

I like the flexibility the Arduino gives. I use the Wemos R1D2 board which is WiFi capable. I can control my system via WiFi and an app on my smartphone - change filter shapes, attenuation/mute, and switch xover and FIR profile configs on the miniSHARC. Others use it for IR and LCD control.
Possum  
#23 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2021 10:14:41 PM(UTC)
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PS, another option is to get a Mercury and transplant a ES9038 on one of your BIIIs - you don't need an external microcontroller to get stereo - simply connect the 4 digital inputs together on your BIII

I modified an 8 channel BIII build with an ES9038 chip transplant and simply removed the firmware chip and jumpered the RESET pin high - It worked fine (except you lose the lock and automute LED functions)

You will need an Arduino or similar of you want to do dual mono ES9028s. And beware that all outputs will be in-phase by default - whereas the TP BIII firmware puts left and right channels out of phase.
Jordo  
#24 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2021 10:42:42 PM(UTC)
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Hi Possum,

I have ordered two of the PSU’s you suggested this morning to start with.

I did some questioning about swapping DAC chips and, as you describe below, it’s not quite straightforward for a Sunday DIY like I am. So I have to skip this option too. Sorry for the effort you put in the extensive explanation but it might be useful for others to use.

The Centaur boosts a 2A against the LT3045 with 0,56 per rail if I stand correctly. As I use the sidecar connected to the Placid of the DAC I’m in doubt if the LT3045 is capable of providing sufficient headroom? The power to the XO an AVCC is divided dough.
To do it the best way I need 3 seperate PSU’s per DAC don’t I? One for the BIII main input, one for the XO and one for both AVCC’s where I could combine the PSU for the XO and the AVCC’s right?

Quote:
If, on the other hand you buy a 9038PRO + Mercury the onboard firmware does all that for you, but that's a substantial amount of money to outlay.

Ok but instead of building dual mono (buying two 9028’s) I buy one 9038 and a Mercury. This setting is comparable right?

Cheers,

Jordo


Possum  
#25 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2021 11:09:42 PM(UTC)
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I would not share the same PS between DAC digital and Digital inputs like USB, Teleporter, Cronus or Sidecar - anything that sends digital over the wire is more susceptible to noise than the DAC's internal computer. The ES9028/38 is even noisier than the 9018 as it's doing heaps more compute.

I also highly recommend solid silver wiring for all digital and analog lines - stay clear of uFl connectors as they adversely affect the sound IMHO (they sound terrible compared to solid silver - I couldn't get them out of my build fast enough).
Possum  
#26 Posted : Saturday, March 13, 2021 11:10:45 PM(UTC)
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PS: The DIYINHK PS is only good for max 400ma as the murata choke gets too hot above that
Jordo  
#27 Posted : Sunday, March 14, 2021 9:03:30 AM(UTC)
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Ok thank you Possum.

I will wait for the Power Supplies to arrive and then see how I can fit 6 PSU's for 2 DAC's.

As for the Ufl connections. I was just starting to become a big fan of this system that allows you to totally shield your data connections.
I do not have great experience with the use of silver in the analogue stages due to their hard and sharp character in the high frequencies. But that was years ago in a totally different rig.

Thank,

Jordo

P.S.

Your PM box is full




Possum  
#28 Posted : Sunday, March 14, 2021 10:40:50 AM(UTC)
Possum

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If pure solid silver wire makes your system sound sharp it means there is a problem elsewhere (most probably your PS noise)

"As for the Ufl connections. I was just starting to become a big fan of this system that allows you to totally shield your data connections"

I must ask, for what purpose? I can understand using Ufl connectors to carry a microscopic GHz signal from a mobile phone antennae a few inches without being contaminated by the surrounding circuits - but that simply ain't an issue with a 3.3v I2S signal traveling a few inches carrying relatively low frequency (i.e.: KHz) signals.

Its all bullshit. Get your power clean and simply do a listening test and you will throw your Ufl connectors in the bin like I did. Biggest waste of money ever IMHO.



Jordo  
#29 Posted : Sunday, March 14, 2021 1:17:29 PM(UTC)
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Do you have a specific brand you use which I can order? AWG26 you said?

Thx,

Jordo
Possum  
#30 Posted : Sunday, March 14, 2021 9:02:56 PM(UTC)
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Just get some fine silver wire (99.99% pure or better - do not use sterling silver!) from a jewelry supplier (or ebay) and put a loose insulating sleeve on it - I use 26-30 AWG wire with either braided cotton sleeve or PFTE tubing with a 1.2mm inner diameter (the PFTE tubing is cheaper and much easier to thread the wire into)

The idea of the sleeving is to be loose enough that the wire is mainly using air as the dielectric.

After much experimentation I came to the following conclusions about cabling:

- Avoid using multicore cable anywhere (power and signal). Only use solid core/strip.
- Never use plated wire in the signal path
- Pure silver sounds much better everywhere in the signal path (interconnects, speaker cable, and even digital) than using any kind of copper
- Silver sounds no better than equivalent solid core copper for power lines (I simply use 1mm solid core house wiring)
- Silver makes the best speaker cable - use fine silver strip

Do not touch the silver as it will oxidise it badly. Polish it with very fine steel wool or metal polish.

Silver can sound overly-bright to begin with. It needs to be burnt in for 100-200 hours.

My other tips for attaining audio heaven are to use good mains power filtering and DSP to correct your speakers and room

Edited by user Sunday, March 14, 2021 9:08:35 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Jordo  
#31 Posted : Friday, March 26, 2021 6:54:11 PM(UTC)
Jordo

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Hi Possum,

I received the first two PSU's. Quality looks really nice.
I have a 9VAC Trafo but the PSU says to attach a 6/8/10 V.

Can I connect the 9VAC Trafo you think?

Thx
Possum  
#32 Posted : Friday, March 26, 2021 8:40:51 PM(UTC)
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Sure - I use 9V without any issue

The Murata chokes are the limiting factor on those PSUs - they get hot. 350-400ma is their limit, but you shouldn't be coming anywhere close to that current.
thanks 1 user thanked Possum for this useful post.
Jordo on 3/27/2021(UTC)
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