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OK so here is what I tried, and it worked, but its hard for me to say if it is better or not, since it was already working fine for me before. So if one of you brave souls wants to give it a go I would appreciate it. :) what I did was lower the reference voltage and impedance by reducing R9 - R12. I used 2K but 1K would also have probably been fine. you could test this easily by just adding a 2-4.7K resistor in parallel with the existing resistors (this way you don't need to desolder anything). See if that helps at all. basically what this does is lower in the impedance into both inputs. One other idea is to apply a bit of positive feedback (say 47-200K this will take some tweaking) from each output to each positive input on the comparator. But his is a little bit more difficult, and will actually slow the thing down - it may not handle 192Khz input if you do this. Anyway, just some things to try if you feel like tinkering. Edited by user Thursday, December 20, 2012 12:05:16 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Russ White OK so here is what I tried, and it worked, but its hard for me to say if it is better or not, since it was already working fine for me before.
So if one of you brave souls wants to give it a go I would appreciate it. :)
what I did was lower the reference voltage and impedance by reducing R9 - R12.
I used 2K but 1K would also have probably been fine. you could test this easily by just adding a 2-4.7K resistor in parallel with the existing resistors (this way you don't need to desolder anything).
See if that helps at all.
basically what this does is lower in the impedance into both inputs.
One other idea is to apply a bit of positive feedback (say 47-200K this will take some tweaking) from each output to each positive input on the comparator. But his is a little bit more difficult, and will actually slow the thing down - it may not handle 192Khz input if you do this.
Anyway, just some things to try if you feel like tinkering. I will give it a try for sure and post the results. Thanks! |
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I don't want to reopen mine until I have several things to do at once. I need to replace heatsink so I can turn on Transporter (default heatsink does not seem appropriate, it is at 60C already) and add Ventus amplifier once it arrives. I will report at that time, likely in a week or so.
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Can't wait to hear the result as this probably explains the problem I was having with the BNC connector.
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Originally Posted by: Russ White Any luck? I dismembered the entire DAC because when fiddling around I shorted something. This resulted in the left channel falling out with hickups, volume went up and down by itself somehow and the display showed only weird characters. There was coninuity between the chassis and gnd, but between chassis and the positive rails too I have taken all modules out of the chassis. The Dac still locks on the metronome 's clock signal so I think the DAC is not damaged. Since I now I have all modules taken out , it is a good moment to test my new controller and improve the layout and grounding . Now all modules are mounted on a plexi plate instead of metal. This ensures good isolation from the metal chassis. So to answer your question: No, not any luck at all. I still have to try your suggestion, but won't be able to do so before christmas. My first priority is to test if the dac still works. |
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Merry Christmas to you all! I found some time this morning to test if the DAC still plays and I'm very happy to inform you that it does! After Christmas I will do some tests with lowering the inputs impedance into the inputs. |
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I am glad it's still working. Beware of static charge buildup on the Plexiglas.
Merry Christmas
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Merry Christmas! Glad your DAC survived Corpius. I've had some scary moments myself.... |
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Impedance to be lowered where ? On input of the SPDIF 4 ? And is it a good idea to short - input and GND ?
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Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan I am glad it's still working. Beware of static charge buildup on the Plexiglas.
Merry Christmas I thought of that myself. The plexglass plate is mounted to the chassis with metal spacers and the chassis is earthed, so I think or hope that this will prevent buildup of static charge on the plexiglass. Originally Posted by: Erlend Sæterdal
Impedance to be lowered where ? On input of the SPDIF 4 ? And is it a good idea to short - input and GND ?
Read Russ his post #21. Edited by user Tuesday, December 25, 2012 11:41:57 PM(UTC)
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Mounted a 1200 uf. 10 V polymer with only 1,5 mm legs right across on top off the chip. a 22 ohm resistor in series direct to my power supply VD not from the Buffalo board. Shorted all minus / GND input. Mounted 3,9 kohm across the 4,7 kohm resistors. The lock is stable now. Funny thing I have only 0.01 V drop across the 22 0hm resistor. So voltage was not the problem . Oscillation in the chip because off poor power supply design is what I think. Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2012 4:06:55 PM(UTC)
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Shorting -IN to GND is often required. There is no power supply on the board, there is good bypassing.
The lowing of the input bias (with the parallel resistor) likely also helps. :)
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Russ you know we have different meanings about god bypassing. Excuse me but I do not think 100 nf 10 mm away from the chip is god bypassing. And maybe 15 cm to the buffalo and 15 cm to the supply. That could be 30 cm. in worst case.
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So my suggestion to add a larger bypass capacitor was correct? I haven't checked the pcb layout so I don't know if that 100nF is placed well enough but I am still thinking a lack of reservoir cap close by is doing this (which you added, two for one, closer bypass and bigger cap at the same time). The mux chip is surely drawing large current pulses which, with no reservoir cap nearby, disturbing the voltage levels enough to overcome chip's noise margin. I am tempted to test it now myself.
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So I just added 47uF OSCON capacitor I had lying around in parallel with C13 on the back of the PCB. Of course, overnight the power supply to my PC server that has squeezeserver on it died and now I can't actually play music to test it! I tried my old IRiver HP-120 optical out and so far so good - with full voltage there is no skipping even if I touch or plug in something in the coax in while playing through optical in. I will report back once I fix my music server (though finding replacement PicoPSU isn't going to be easy).
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I didn't phrase it correctly. With "finding" I meant finding locally, in a store, in stock right now, today. Anyway, it turns out the dead part is the motherboard, not the PSU :(.
More on topic, I still have a problem when the bathroom fan is turned on or off - the sound cuts out for about a second. But I think this is due to power supply and lack of RF filtering, not the input board. I think I had this happen on another DIY DAC I have.
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Originally Posted by: Erlend Sæterdal Russ you know we have different meanings about god bypassing. Excuse me but I do not think 100 nf 10 mm away from the chip is god bypassing. And maybe 15 cm to the buffalo and 15 cm to the supply. That could be 30 cm. in worst case.
I think you have decoupling and bypassing confused. In any case i am not averse to adding more capacitance there. if it works then by all means do it. Honestly when designing it I expected most people to directly stack the two boards. If you don't then adding some capacitance may indeed be wise. Next revision I will keep this in mind. :) Edited by user Sunday, December 30, 2012 12:18:29 AM(UTC)
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