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I've jumped on the bandwagon and ordered a Buffalo32S, even though I, not really a DIYer, don't know how the connections are to be made even after reading many of the threads and the manual. I'd be grateful to have a comprehensive (...for dummies) set of instructions on how the connections are made for each type of signal, both when the DAC is used as a standalone DAC and as a replacement inside a CD-SACD player.
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The comprehensive information you seek is on this and the diyAudio formums and you just have to be patient and read it all.
When I built my Buff24/MUX/IVY I knew very little about the digital realm. I am a glass guy who still spins vinyl, but i also have 300 plus CD's on the shelf that I am slowly ripping to a music server. Once I made the decision to go with TPA (and its been proven many times over that it was the right decision), I spent a lot of time reading and looking at the pictures in the project gallery. I learned a lot but took my time building, checking each step numerous times and had very little trouble getting the DAC up an running. I ask a few questions and the response on this board and on diyaudio was quick and helpful. If you are ordering the two TPA power supplies, build them first and check voltages with a DVM before hooking up the DAC board. The power supplies are easy to build but take your time and make sure you have the voltage regulators right. If you read this support forum you will see that builders ofter mixed up the voltage regulator IC's.
I use the Squeezebox duet to get music out of the server and into SPDIF input on the DAC as well as SPDIF from a CDP as a tranport. I have four SPDIF inputs to the DAC through the MUX. If you have only one digital device you do not need the MUX, but its handy to have, especially if you want to compare two or more digital devices. I went with the Squeezebox for the computer supplied music because from what I read there are just too many problems with USB and a direct connection between computer and an audio system. My music server is two floors away from my sound system. I really cannot tell any difference between listening to a CD and a music file, of course I am going through the same DAC.
I am waiting for the new Buff32 to arrive sometime next month. i will use the same power supplies(until the Placid is available) and the MUX with the new 32bit board.
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Thanks for the reply. As I said before, I've read many of the threads here but have difficulty getting a clear picture. I guess this is in essence a DIY forum and I'm out of my depth here. Right now , I don't even know how the DAC and the digital coax cable coming from the CD player should be connected. A description of what wire to go into each of the 5 slots(D2, D1, DCK, GND and SPDIF) would be most helpful. I suppose by the time I receive the real thing, I'll have a better understanding.
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clang wrote:Thanks for the reply. As I said before, I've read many of the threads here but have difficulty getting a clear picture. I guess this is in essence a DIY forum and I'm out of my depth here. Right now , I don't even know how the DAC and the digital coax cable coming from the CD player should be connected. A description of what wire to go into each of the 5 slots(D2, D1, DCK, GND and SPDIF) would be most helpful. I suppose by the time I receive the real thing, I'll have a better understanding. Hi Clang, I connected up my Buffalo32S this morning, as follows. Power: Fire up both your supplies and ensure that the +/- are at 15/-15VDC, and the 5VDC is at 5dc. Check to ensure that there is 0Vdc between the GND connections of the digital and analog PSU. 15V supply Connect 15 Vdc to the V+ connector of both VA_Right and VA_Left Connect -15Vdc to the V- connector of both VA_Right and VA_Left Connect 0v to the GND connector of both VA_Right and VA_Left 5V Supply Connect 5Vdc to VD Connect 0V to the GND Assuming an phono connector on the back of your CD player for digital out (marked SPDIF?) Connect a phono/RCA socket to SPDIF and GND on the 5 pin terminal block. Centre of the phono/RCA to SPDIF, the outer to GND. There is a small switch marked SPDIF - move the white marker to the on position. Assuming you want to connect to a 'normal' amplifier connect L Out+ to the center pin of a phono/RCA plug, and GND to the outer. Repeat for the Right hand side. Connect the buffalo to your CD player and power up. Play a disc and the Lock LED should come on. Power off, connect the phono/RCAs to your amp and listen to some music!
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Fwapp wrote:
Power: Fire up both your supplies and ensure that the +/- are at 15/-15VDC, and the 5VDC is at 5dc.
Check to ensure that there is 0Vdc between the GND connections of the digital and analog PSU.
Did you jumper digital ground to analog grounds as it mentions in the online manual? I saw no pads on the underside of the board so I assume that you could use wire between the terminals. I wonder why the board is not just built with traces to do this...
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The 1.1 Boards have 0-ohm jumpers installed at positions L1 and L2. We need to update the manual for the new boards. Note also that the thump busters are integrated into the main board.
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mourip wrote:Fwapp wrote:
Power: Fire up both your supplies and ensure that the +/- are at 15/-15VDC, and the 5VDC is at 5dc.
Check to ensure that there is 0Vdc between the GND connections of the digital and analog PSU.
Did you jumper digital ground to analog grounds as it mentions in the online manual? I saw no pads on the underside of the board so I assume that you could use wire between the terminals. I wonder why the board is not just built with traces to do this... Before connecting my PSU's (home made jobbies, not TP's units) to the DAC, I checked the difference between the digital GND and analog GND. As I had been seized by buidler's fever, I had managed to incorrectly connect the 5V supply to the traffo, and cause a 9v potential difference between the two GND  (whereas there should be 0v) Being the adventurous sort, I linked the GNDs anyway, which caused the traffo to buzz excitedly! A quick additional traffo later (now one per supply), and the pd across the two grounds was 0v. I had seen the two smd 0R links on the bottom of the buffalo board, but decided to check the supplies before connecting. Quite glad I didn't use the DAC board to short the 9V potential! I detailed this particular check so that others wouldn't destroy thers shiny new DAC/burn down the house  The only other hiccup on my part was that the board was shipped not in SPdif mode, so I had no lock for a short, scary while. I assumed that it was. Very pleased with what I'm listening too at the moment, the DAC is sublime. Thank you Brian and Russ. But what would it sound like with better supply's....
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Thanks a lot, Fwapp. That's a great help. I wish something like this is in the manual.
Now, what if I want to receive DSD signal?
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clang wrote:Thanks a lot, Fwapp. That's a great help. I wish something like this is in the manual.
Now, what if I want to receive DSD signal? Hmmm, I think that you connect the DSD signal as per the I2S signal, using the D2, D1, DCK and GND connections, with nothing in the SPdif connector. I'm guessing this, by the way, so someone feel free to put me right if I am wrong. You also need to switch the SPdif switch from ON to 1  and dip switch 4 to - Hope I'm right, and hope it helps!
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Thanks. I suppose the people at Twisted Pear would have corrected you if you were wrong.
I'll hold on to this till the DAC arrives.
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clang wrote:Thanks. I suppose the people at Twisted Pear would have corrected you if you were wrong. I would hope they would! I think pictures help, so here is my lash-up from last weekend, just to see if it worked. Ignore the burn marks, I used the mdf board to protect the wall when using a blowtorch to do some plumbing!! 
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it would be really nice if there was a proper manual for the kit...
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Rank: Member
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The picture is great, though it looks a bit daunting with all those power supply stuff. I'll be using SLA batteries for the power like I did with my active crossover in bi-amping.
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