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Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan I think that drilling out the holes has disconnected the bottom pads of the terminal block from the traces on the top that they are supposed to be feeding.
(Do you have a third hand for taking those pictures?) Hello Brian, So The the values are wrong I take it.??. How do I fix this? The bad thing is, beside the wasted time I have caused everybody. The TC block connectors would have never fit in the holes So is the board trash now?? oooooooohhhhhh --- how dis-appointing Third hand is my son first, then my daughter. not smiling - DAVE
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Originally Posted by: Brian Donegan I think that drilling out the holes has disconnected the bottom pads of the terminal block from the traces on the top that they are supposed to be feeding.
(Do you have a third hand for taking those pictures?) I do think so, because the voltage at the output cap is really low.
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I think its likely a backward diode.
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If it where the pads the circuit would be open, and the voltage would still be present at the output side caps. So I doubt that is the issue.
Since there is no voltage at the output side caps I suspect a problem upstream :)
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The extreme low voltages even at the secondaries also suggest a short.
This could be either from a reversed diode or something else. like solder bridge etc.
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Hey Russ, OK so there is hope for this board? maybe Did you get to see all the picture i posted? I notice the diodes on the LCBPS go in the same =|| direction, did you design the LCDPS to be the same way? Originally Posted by: Russ White If it where the pads the circuit would be open, and the voltage would still be present at the output side caps. So I doubt that is the issue.
Since there is no voltage at the output side caps I suspect a problem upstream :)
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If you followed the silk orientation mark all is well. I actually have another theory too. Which pads did you drill out? Input or output? Both? I was under the impression is was just the output. Edited by user Tuesday, January 29, 2013 11:00:51 PM(UTC)
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I can't see D3 and D4 in the pictures. They are hidden by the heatsinks.
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I followed the pattern that was on the PCB board -- Looking at the board with the - Pear on the right side - D1 diode - shows the light gray band pointing to the LEFT D2 diode - shows the light gray band pointing to the RIGHT Which pads did you drill out? Both Input or output sides were bad, it's like there was to much solder in the hole, that's the only reason I used the drill bit again I did this by hand and only a touch Originally Posted by: Russ White If you followed the silk orientation mark all is well.
I actually have another theory too.
Which pads did you drill out? Input or output? Both? I was under the impression is was just the output.
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Please measure the AC voltage across C1 and C2. They are the pads directly after the terminal blocks under the board.
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It is the D3 and D4 I am worried about, not D1 and D2 :)
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D3 & D4 gray band are facing towards the direction of the PEAR Originally Posted by: Russ White It is the D3 and D4 I am worried about, not D1 and D2 :)
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if the voltage across C1 and C2 is very low, then I think Brian was absolutely correct. I would have actually thought so earlier but I mistakenly thought you only had drilled the output side of the board. :) The good news, there is a super easy way to fix it. :) Yay!!! Solder a clipped resistor lead (or anything else like that - even a short wire) on the bottom side of the board from each AC input pad to its adjacent cap (C1/C2) like the attached picture. Edited by user Tuesday, January 29, 2013 11:32:24 PM(UTC)
| Reason: Not specified Russ White attached the following image(s): pic.jpg (206kb) downloaded 26 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Originally Posted by: Datazone D3 & D4 gray band are facing towards the direction of the PEAR Originally Posted by: Russ White It is the D3 and D4 I am worried about, not D1 and D2 :) Uh oh.... If this is true then that is a definitely a problem. You will need to sort that before you can go on. The light color band should be facing the input side of the board, not the pear. Look at the picture I just posted. Edited by user Tuesday, January 29, 2013 11:38:52 PM(UTC)
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OK I will that now.. Originally Posted by: Russ White if the voltage across C1 and C2 is very low, then I think Brian was absolutely correct. I would have actually thought so earlier but I mistakenly thought you only had drilled the output side of the board. :)
The good news, there is a super easy way to fix it. :) Yay!!!
Solder a clipped resistor lead (or anything else like that - even a short wire) on the bottom side of the board from each AC input pad to its adjacent cap (C1/C2) like the attached picture.
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Originally Posted by: Datazone OK I will that now.. Originally Posted by: Russ White if the voltage across C1 and C2 is very low, then I think Brian was absolutely correct. I would have actually thought so earlier but I mistakenly thought you only had drilled the output side of the board. :)
The good news, there is a super easy way to fix it. :) Yay!!!
Solder a clipped resistor lead (or anything else like that - even a short wire) on the bottom side of the board from each AC input pad to its adjacent cap (C1/C2) like the attached picture. Won't hurt anything, but you need to fix the D3 and D4 orientation first, or things won't work at all. :) In fact that could be the only problem.
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Clipped Resistor leads added? Does this need to be done to both sides ? The D3 and D4 are correct to the board print. I miss spoke and suggested they were going the wrong way, please review all the picture attached so I can move forward with the voltage test. Thanks, Dave Originally Posted by: Russ White if the voltage across C1 and C2 is very low, then I think Brian was absolutely correct. I would have actually thought so earlier but I mistakenly thought you only had drilled the output side of the board. :)
The good news, there is a super easy way to fix it. :) Yay!!!
Solder a clipped resistor lead (or anything else like that - even a short wire) on the bottom side of the board from each AC input pad to its adjacent cap (C1/C2) like the attached picture. Datazone attached the following image(s): LCDPS-repair.jpg (205kb) downloaded 19 time(s). D4.jpg (216kb) downloaded 17 time(s). D3.jpg (206kb) downloaded 17 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Just the bottom side. Yes you are good to go. :) Glad you mispoke rather than misplaced. Edited by user Wednesday, January 30, 2013 12:48:55 AM(UTC)
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Hey Russ AC volt readings at A1 and A2 11V both Glad you mispoke rather than misplaced I agree - I hate to remove and re solder parts. What would good DC volt reading be for example at C3 thru C10? Also, if for some reason I'm not getting at least DC 5.25V each side at the DC out ?? What jumpers should I make if the OUTPUT DC has the same issue the AC INPUT had due to the TC block? Thanks for your help Dave Originally Posted by: Russ White Just the bottom side.
Yes you are good to go. :)
Glad you mispoke rather than misplaced. Datazone attached the following image(s): A1-with-Clippers.jpg (237kb) downloaded 12 time(s). A2-with-Clippers.jpg (237kb) downloaded 8 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Originally Posted by: Datazone Does this need to be done to both sides ?
Did you mean both ends of the board maybe (outputs too)? Possible if the same method were used on the eyelets. About post 11 I was at the eyelets, you guys are slow. ;) Edited by user Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:26:03 AM(UTC)
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