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Hello, I have had a buff II, placid, placid bp, volumite playing to great effect in my system for a while now (months). Once before I have had a major(full volume) hum, screech, frying sound come from my system, then a long stretch with no more strange behavior. Yesterday more of the same and the negative side of placid bp leds are extremely dim. Any thoughts or is it time for a new placid HDBP? Thanks Matt McGowan Edited by user Wednesday, December 14, 2011 3:47:44 PM(UTC)
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Is the Placid behavior the same when not connected to the output stage (and what is that stage)?
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The output stage is an IVY III, and the leds are the same with and without load.
I'm also getting no voltage at placid negative out.
Matt McGowan
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Update and bump.
An intermittent short on the output rca was the scary noise source and is now solved.
The negative side of the placid bp DOES have a voltage (-21.9 volts)
with almost no range (2-3 turns changes it .10 volt)of adjustment.
The unit plays music still and may have been in this condition for a while.
I only gave it a look when I had the disturbing noises. Any help appreciated.
Matt McGowan
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good photos and information like how much current you have them set for, how much is shunting etc would be great.
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The supply was set up for R1,R2=250 mA, R13,R14 55mA shunt per instructions. Negative side now reads R1=.096 volts (no adjustment possible), R13=0 volts. Both heatsinks QP3 and QN1 are cold. Attempt at pics below. Thanks, Matt McGowan dblnickels attached the following image(s):  IMG_0650.jpg (232kb) downloaded 126 time(s). IMG_0652.jpg (157kb) downloaded 130 time(s). IMG_0656.jpg (194kb) downloaded 127 time(s). IMG_0647.jpg (78kb) downloaded 122 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Thanks, What is the voltage across each of the capacitors (both sides of the board)? Also measure the voltage across R11 and R12. With the power off confirm the value of R11 and R12. The fact that the negative side LEDs are so DIM means that something is very definitely amiss. Your measurements will point us in the right direction. :) Edited by user Monday, December 12, 2011 3:08:46 PM(UTC)
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I would start by resoldering the connections in the half involved. Although quite a few look fine or even excellent, I have question marks about some of the solderings although it is difficult to judge from a photo. They might have come loose over time.
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LeonvB wrote:I would start by resoldering the connections in the half involved. Although quite a few look fine or even excellent, I have question marks about some of the solderings although it is difficult to judge from a photo. They might have come loose over time. Several joints need flux and reflow.
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Absolutely agree. I would start with a good solder touch up on the whole board. :) Edited by user Monday, December 12, 2011 8:55:26 PM(UTC)
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It Lives!!!!
Reworked the negative side twice. D3 and D4 lit up the first time and D6 on the second try.
Everything adjusts normally.
Thanks for this wonderful music machine, it really does sound sublime. Mine has been dubbed the "ghetto" blaster as in
that thing looks so ghetto! Looking forward to the usb and control modules.
Also would it be best to switch out the placid to a HD model if I add tridents?
Matt McGowan
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Good to hear you got it working again.
Regarding your question: it is hard to tell. I have the BII with Tridents, and my Placid has some headroom left. One of them also powers the Mux/Toslink so I think it should work, at least in some cases. I'd try it, there's little that can go wrong.
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