Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


4 Pages<1234>
Options
View
Go to last post Go to first unread
Russ White  
#21 Posted : Friday, April 15, 2011 10:30:52 AM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Lazybutt wrote:
Quote:
Me: "No sweetie, it's my fault they got cooked." (...and who didn't turn the system off??? Speak to the hand - still my fault...)


Well.... a device that cannot stay ON for 24 hours definitely sounds defective to me..... forgetting to turn OFF a system is not a at all a fault in my book....... (that's my opinion)



The problem not that he turned off or left on the system. :)

It could actually have been any number of things, but my suspicion is that the Placid voltage was inadvertently set a bit too high. Th 5.5V max is strict. :)
francolargo  
#22 Posted : Friday, April 15, 2011 4:19:54 PM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Lazybutt wrote:
Quote:
Me: "No sweetie, it's my fault they got cooked." (...and who didn't turn the system off??? Speak to the hand - still my fault...)


Well.... a device that cannot stay ON for 24 hours definitely sounds defective to me.....


It is nice that we agree! In the future the cold turn-on voltage will be adjusted to 5.50 V and whatever the final stable voltage drops to, that will be the operating condition. We won't really know if the damage was from accumulated heat and mild overvoltage over 24 hours (as I suspect), significant (100mv?) short-term over-voltage at cold turn-on, or a combination of both factors. Hopefully one more repair step will wrap this up.

Greetings to distant Shanghai!

Frank

Edited by user Friday, April 15, 2011 5:10:38 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

francolargo  
#23 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 4:23:00 PM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

francolargo wrote:
Hopefully one more repair step will wrap this up.


Frank


Not encouraging. New transistors do produce an output but it is 2.18v, with the reference voltage being 1.2 v.

Frank
Russ White  
#24 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 6:01:23 PM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Refresh my memory... This is the 1.2V reg?

Replacing SMD components can be tricky business. You have to be very careful you don't overheat the parts while being cautious of ESD,

There are a few possibilities, but two most likely culprits here are the opamp and the shunt transistor (QP2).

What is the voltage at the base of QP2?
Are both LEDs lighting?
francolargo  
#25 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 6:23:59 PM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Thanks for checking Russ,

Yes, this is the 1.2v reg.

Both LEDs are lit.

The opamp was replaced as well as the two transistors. I do have extra new transistors, if needed... Too much heat is a possibility!

Voltage between QP2 base pin and ground is 5.48v. (Between QP1 base pin and ground is 3.57v.)
Russ White  
#26 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 6:49:11 PM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Hmm had to rethink that. Major edit here (too many schematics in my head).

Ok the voltage at the base of QP2 should be much lower. That makes me wonder about a short or even an open cct.

Edited by user Monday, April 18, 2011 6:54:30 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Russ White  
#27 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 6:53:55 PM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
What are the voltages at pins 2 and 3 of the opamp?
Russ White  
#28 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 6:55:30 PM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Also what is the voltage across R7?
francolargo  
#29 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 7:16:07 PM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

All of your fine help is much appreciated, Russ.

Two new transistors again gave 2.19v output. So I'm declaring this patient to be dead.

I'll find one of the ferrites and put it back. When Brian gets around to another batch of Tridents I will order one.

...besides, this board is ugly because somebody ground off one of it's corners!

Also, since we're on page two of this conversation, I will edit the first post with a mini-summary and lessons learned.

Cheers,

Frank
Russ White  
#30 Posted : Monday, April 18, 2011 7:18:49 PM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Well based on your earlier info I don't think it is the the transistors. I think it more likely the opamp (or components around the opmap).

I would be interested to know the answer to the two questions I posed above.

What are the voltages at pins 2 and 3 of the opamp (to gnd)?

Also what is the voltage across R7?

It could be we at least find what is actually wrong here. :)

Edited by user Monday, April 18, 2011 7:23:56 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

francolargo  
#31 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 8:33:48 AM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Russ White wrote:


It could be we at least find what is actually wrong here. :)


Good point. But rather than continue messing with the Placid and critical B2, I'll set up a less crucial pre-reg for testing and then report back on those Q's.

Re: the transistors, remember that at least one was bad before yesterday's swap because we went from no output to >2v.

With the VDD trident removed, the system sounds detailed but distinctly less outstanding! Clearly, the 1.2v board seems necessary to fully extract every drop of B2 'hi-fi juice'. Think

Frank

Edited by user Tuesday, April 19, 2011 8:43:48 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Russ White  
#32 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 8:48:06 AM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
Yes you should be testing these independently (not connected to Buf II) to be sure they are fixed before you actually use them.

What I was saying is that right now I am leaning that you probably have good transistors. Earlier you definitely had a bad one or two. :)

My guess is that either something is depriving the opamp of feedback or you have a bad opamp.

What is exact part of the opamp you used?

francolargo  
#33 Posted : Friday, April 22, 2011 10:28:39 AM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Greetings Russ and friendly readers,

After a work-imposed break from soldering, great news - the 1.2 v Trident is repaired.

Making the measurements that Russ suggested there was some obviously weird behavior. LED1 was out due to over-voltage. When I measured opamp pin two vs. ground, the LED would come on! Measuring the other pins, Vout was almost equal to V+. I had 1 more new exact replacement op amp, so I decided to try using it. After clipping the 8 leads to remove the op amp I had installed, I found only 7 feet soldered in place and needing removal! Pin two had been poorly connected, explaining how pressure on the pin changed the output of the circuit.

With the repaired Trident the amazing sound quality of Buffalo II was instantly restored.

The bottom line on this experience is that both voltage and heat should be considered. The lessons I learned are several:

1) The 5.5v supply limit on the Trident op-amps should be strictly respected. They can take a bit more for a limited time, but there is no sonic benefit whatsoever.
2) If installing Tridents above a Legato, it is advisable to orient the boards vertically. When rotated 'sideways', they can still clear C15 on the Legato (ver. 2) and rise only a tiny bit above the AVCC board on B2.
3) The 1.2 volt VDD Trident, in particular, is key to maximizing the Buffalo II experience.
4) Thermal drift of the Placid requires attention.

At the moment I am letting everything reach temperature equilibrium and re-checking all voltages. I have 4 power supplies plus numerous other heat producers all positioned close together and not much air volume in the chassis, so I decided to use external exhaust fans. I would prefer to avoid them if I had more open space for convective cooling. Attached is a photo of my external chassis ventilation. Fortunately it is hidden in the top of an equipment rack because it is ugly! Sick A ventilated 1U front panel atop the preamp/DAC gives the 800 rpm 12v fans about 15mm overhead space. The fan motors are shielded from the DAC and Tridents by grounded corrugated screens and are powered by an external 'wall wart' power supply. Speed control and a 47uF bypass capacitor help with physical and electromagnetic noise. They seem to be silent. An external power relay that is actuated by 5v from the preamp JT power supply prevents fan power supply lines from polluting the interior of the chassis. Again, the fans are not ideal but necessary with the space constraints I have chosen.

So, another really successful support case Russ! Thank you so very much!

Frank



Edited by user Monday, April 25, 2011 8:28:52 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

francolargo attached the following image(s):
IMG_4033.jpg (141kb) downloaded 423 time(s).

You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
avr300  
#34 Posted : Friday, April 22, 2011 11:02:52 AM(UTC)
avr300

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 6/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 921
Denmark

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 70 time(s) in 69 post(s)
Good to see you rocking again.
Marek  
#35 Posted : Saturday, April 23, 2011 4:03:22 PM(UTC)
Marek

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/23/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
Location: Poland

Hi,

I've just installed new set of Tridents in my B2, Placid regulated to handle new situation, everything seems to work ok - LEDs ok, voltages ok, BUT I discovered that QP1 transistor on 1.2V Trident is very hot. Should I worry about?

Thanks
Marek


francolargo  
#36 Posted : Sunday, April 24, 2011 9:34:36 PM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Marek wrote:
Hi,

I discovered that QP1 transistor on 1.2V Trident is very hot. Should I worry about?



I'm certainly no engineer, but the datasheet lists a maximum junction temperature of 150 degrees C.
Not only is that a high temperature, but many other tridents have been in operation with no trouble.
Theory aside, my experience suggests that all they need is a bit of air for cooling - with vertical placement preferred.

Data sheet: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/BC/BC860.pdf

Marek  
#37 Posted : Monday, April 25, 2011 4:08:34 AM(UTC)
Marek

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/23/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
Location: Poland

francolargo wrote:
Marek wrote:
Hi,

I discovered that QP1 transistor on 1.2V Trident is very hot. Should I worry about?



I'm certainly no engineer, but the datasheet lists a maximum junction temperature of 150 degrees C.
Not only is that a high temperature, but many other tridents have been in operation with no trouble.
Theory aside, my experience suggests that all they need is a bit of air for cooling - with vertical placement preferred.

Data sheet: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/BC/BC860.pdf



Can you check temeprature of transistors in your 1.2V Trident - just with finger. Mine QP1 transistor is so hot that I can't hold it with finger more then few seconds.
I'm worried that QP1 will burn and it can effectively burny my B2..

Edited by user Monday, April 25, 2011 5:50:51 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Russ White  
#38 Posted : Monday, April 25, 2011 7:56:14 AM(UTC)
Russ White

Rank: Administration

Groups: Administration, Customer
Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC)
Posts: 3,979
Location: Nashville, TN

Thanks: 25 times
Was thanked: 89 time(s) in 83 post(s)
They will run pretty warm but well within specs with a lot of margin. They don't really need to be stood vertically. Just keep the voltage manageable. Down to 5V is just fine. The closer to 5V the cooler things will run. :)
Marek  
#39 Posted : Monday, April 25, 2011 12:43:29 PM(UTC)
Marek

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/23/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
Location: Poland

I'm glad to hear this is normal behavior. Thanks.

Edited by user Monday, April 25, 2011 1:21:20 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

francolargo  
#40 Posted : Thursday, May 5, 2011 11:56:14 AM(UTC)
francolargo

Rank: Member

Groups: Member
Joined: 4/21/2007(UTC)
Posts: 59
Location: Minnesota

Opened up my preamp for a PS 'audit' because after long-term warmup I was hearing some high frequency "compression". Yes, that little QP1 was running hot at 5.4v. I backed supply voltage down to 5.25. I also increased the Placid shunt current from 70 to 100ma, which took care of the HF compression I was hearing. ...best performance yet!
Rss Feed  Atom Feed
Users browsing this topic
GuestUser (28)
4 Pages<1234>
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.