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Just in time for Christmas :-)
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AVR300 and Washout, How did you remove the ferrite beads? I have a set of tridents on the way. Just thinking of how I will remove them. Probably hot iron and fingers crossed! 
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Yuu can use two fairly cheap soldering irons at the same time to get them off. Or a pair of SMT tweezers.
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I was wondering, what's the scope for paralleling 2 single placids, both set to something like 275mA to give a bit more shunt?
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That won't work well(if at all). Your best bet would be to use LCDPS. Or just configure the Placid for more current. Edited by user Friday, November 26, 2010 8:04:48 AM(UTC)
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schnak wrote:AVR300 and Washout, How did you remove the ferrite beads? I have a set of tridents on the way. Just thinking of how I will remove them. Probably hot iron and fingers crossed! I have a fairly wide tip for my Weller. It can touch both ends of the bead at once.
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Can one of you had Trident up and working to share the following information?
1. Can you please confirm that the current needs to be adjust or not?
2. What is the new current in ma need to be set?
3. Is the VR1 (R8) where the adjustment to be adjusted?
Thanks for helping out the beginner!
Milton
P.S. Do you know the length of the ferrite bead? Check to see there is tip for my solder iron gun for removing it!
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Are you using Placid PSU?. If yes, it depends of how you have adjusted now. The current draw is 450mA after the Tridents, so yes, you should probably adjust your Placid. I'm burning 500mA (full scale - flat out) in my Placid, leaving about 50mA in the shunt itself after connecting the BII. Yes, according to manual: "Now adjust the CCS pot (VR1) until the measured voltage across R8 is ~ 0.35V. The Placid is now ready to supply current of up to 350mA." - you just have to turn it up to ~ 0.5v. The bead is 3mm wide. Edited by user Friday, November 26, 2010 12:08:51 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Thanks avr300!
That is the information I need!
By any chance you know the length of the ferrite bead!
Have a wonderful Friday,
Milton
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It's 3mm wide/long. The same to you. Edited by user Friday, November 26, 2010 12:25:53 PM(UTC)
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Thank you avr300!
There is one tip that is U shape and 3.2mm wide for my iron gun. This would help a lot for using one iron gun to remove the bead!
Thanks again,
Milton
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Be careful don't melt the whole thing.
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avr300 wrote:What a nice little addon those Tridents.
Tnx, Russ and The B man, excellent piece of circuit. What a X'mas Tree!!
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Just got a Buff-II set in the mail today... thanks TP!
I've got a question on installing them... removing the ferrite beads L6 / L7 / L8 is the recommended way to disable the on-board LT1763 regulators before installing the Trident boards. But once these are removed, the Oscon filter caps C10 / C11 / C18 are now out of the circuit. For a somewhat rabid installation, would it work to:
1. Remove the LT1763 chips.
2. Cut the VD trace after each ferrite bead L6 / L7 / L8.
3. Jumper from the output of each ferrite beads to the far end of each cut trace to re-enable the VD pad at the Trident mounting pads
Then install the Tridents as normal? This would keep the ferrite bead/Oscon local filter at the input of the Tridents for theoretically better power input.
Any reason not to do this (other than the risk of damaging the board removing the LT1763's)?
Two other questions... there's been some discussion of Placid shunts versus LCDPS to power the Buff-II with Tridents. I have both available... is there a theoretical sonic advantage of one over the other?
And finally, washout used three Placids (one each for AVCC, VDD/DVCC, and clock) to power his Buff-II. If I was doing the same with a Placid and the two outputs of a LCDPS, is there any strong preference for which is connected to which input... and also any strong preference for connecting them the same way he did or splitting them differently or even adding a fourth input?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Greg in Mississippi
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gstew wrote:Just got a Buff-II set in the mail today... thanks TP!
1. I've got a question on installing them... removing the ferrite beads L6 / L7 / L8 is the recommended way to disable the on-board LT1763 regulators before installing the Trident boards. But once these are removed, the Oscon filter caps C10 / C11 / C18 are now out of the circuit. For a somewhat rabid installation, would it work to:
A. Remove the LT1763 chips.
B. Cut the VD trace after each ferrite bead L6 / L7 / L8.
C. Jumper from the output of each ferrite beads to the far end of each cut trace to re-enable the VD pad at the Trident mounting pads
Then install the Tridents as normal? This would keep the ferrite bead/Oscon local filter at the input of the Tridents for theoretically better power input.
2. Any reason not to do this (other than the risk of damaging the board removing the LT1763's)?
3. Two other questions... there's been some discussion of Placid shunts versus LCDPS to power the Buff-II with Tridents. I have both available... is there a theoretical sonic advantage of one over the other?
4. And finally, washout used three Placids (one each for AVCC, VDD/DVCC, and clock) to power his Buff-II. If I was doing the same with a Placid and the two outputs of a LCDPS, is there any strong preference for which is connected to which input... and also any strong preference for connecting them the same way he did or splitting them differently or even adding a fourth input?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Greg in Mississippi 1. Yikes, no don't do this. A couple of reasons. The PSRR of the Trident is so high at the frequencies the ferrite works at as to make this mod a complete wast of time. Also the shunt reg draws a constant current. 2. The risk is in no way going to be rewarded with anything worth the trouble. 3. Use LCDPS if you have one. The first shunt reg will have no benefit here. A linear reg in front of the Tridents makes more sense, though either will work. Performance wise there should be zero difference. 4. Use one PS. Washout had three because he was experimenting prior to the Trident being available. Just remove the ferrite beads and be happy. :) Have fun! Cheers! Russ
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Very tempting little "radiators"!  I would have a choice of using either an LCDPS or a Placid, but am wondering about re-configuring power supplies. Q1: What is the max current available from 1 rail of LCDPS? (I looked but couldn't find this info elsewhere on the site.) Q2: If I have a spare Placid, would my Opus boards benefit significantly from using it rather than the LCDPS? If so, which is more critical, VA or VD? Cheers! Frank
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It depends on the cooling, but I think the absolute max. was 1A.
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And, if you intent to draw that kind of current, you have to address R1-R4. Remember, those are 10R.
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Yes for anyone need more then about 400ma out of each side of the LCDPS you should either use 1R at R1-4 or just a jumper at each spot. Either is just fine, especially for this app.
There is no benefit to using the Placid if you are using the Tridents. There is also no harm.
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So, the easier and simplier way in dual mono configuration is to use a LCDPS with one rail per channel, jumpers at R1-R4 and for full channel separation, one transfo per rail.
That's right?
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