Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/7/2010(UTC) Posts: 43 Location: San Diego
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Anyone having issues with a recent Placid BP, check the values for VR1 and VR2 that were supplied. My kit contained 2 bags marked with VR1 and VR2, one bag contained two 20R units and one two 200R units. The bags were marked with 20ohm and 200ohm respectively. Unfortunately I was complacent after putting together the first single Placid and didn't check the schematic prior to soldering in the VR's. Of course, with a 50% chance of being right....I ended up putting the oncorrect pair in! Aside from this one issue the kits are very professional and the board quality excellent. Edited by user Tuesday, September 7, 2010 11:14:05 PM(UTC)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 8/3/2010(UTC) Posts: 25 Location: Australia
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I'm fairly certain that Brian will have included both values intentionally, rather than in error. It's mentioned elsewhere that the 20R is more suitable when driving higher supply currents. Edited by user Wednesday, September 8, 2010 1:36:02 AM(UTC)
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration, Customer Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,868 Location: Massachusetts, USA
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We are actually changing to the lower value to make fine adjustment easier. Both parts will work, but the 20R pots will allow a little more control. Honestly, I just didn't feel like going through all the bags to remove the larger values which were, of course, usually all the way at the bottom. Sorry for the confusion.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 9/7/2010(UTC) Posts: 43 Location: San Diego
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Thanks Brian. I didn't see any notes on the 20R substitution, I assume that when initially setting up the CCS R the 20R pot should be adjusted to the maximum 20R.
Regards
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Rank: Administration
Groups: Administration, Customer Joined: 10/24/2006(UTC) Posts: 2,868 Location: Massachusetts, USA
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Yes. We need to get the manual updated.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 48 Location: Malaysia
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Yes please update the manual. If only it was, I could have avoided the painful task of trying to de-solder the 20ohm units and damaging one of them in the process.
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