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Adjusted to 500 Ohmn, so VR1 works and connected up transformer (no load) 1. 9.6vac in and 5.2vdc out 2. TP_VIN + / TP_CCS+ = 1.8vdc, cannot adjust with VR1 3. TP_OUT + / TP_SHUNT+ = 1.8vdc 4. Using 402 Ohmn across VR2 5. A1a gets pretty warm 6. I've retouched all joints, no apparent shorts. Photos attached, sorry I only have my iPad. Anyone have any suggestions? Russ File Attachment(s):  IMG_0474.JPG (257kb) downloaded 3 time(s).AudioBear attached the following image(s): IMG_0472.JPG (239kb) downloaded 34 time(s). IMG_0473.JPG (244kb) downloaded 26 time(s). IMG_0476.JPG (208kb) downloaded 26 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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One image seems to have failed to upload properly, sorry, File Attachment(s): IMG_0474.JPG (257kb) downloaded 11 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Only the usual suspects. - Check the transistors and voltage references. No mix up ? - Check for solder bridges. The one I have marked looks like a candidate. Something for sure is wrong. You're burning a lot of fuel. avr300 attached the following image(s): cut.JPG (48kb) downloaded 35 time(s).You cannot view/download attachments. Try to login or register.
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Originally Posted by: avr300  Only the usual suspects.
- Check the transistors and voltage references. No mix up ?
- Check for solder bridges. The one I have marked looks like a candidate.
Something for sure is wrong. You're burning a lot of fuel. Thanks avr300 for the prompt response, I'll certainly check that solder point out, do you have any further examples of: '- Check the transistors and voltage references.?' For examples of where and what to measure to try and isolate the problem? Best wishes, Russ
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Just make sure you haven't mixed up the voltage references and the transistors. They are lookalike. Edited by user Saturday, September 27, 2014 2:36:20 PM(UTC)
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Agree with avr. Check QP3 for solder-bridge.
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Originally Posted by: avr300 Just make sure you haven't mixed up the voltage references and the transistors. The are lookalike. Well I had another look, all looks fine to me... but obviously still not right. In the meantime I built a Placid HD BP 1.2 and it works as expected, so I'm not sure what has gone wrong with the single one : (
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The single is identical to the positive half of the BP.
Now you have a working BP try measuring (either with a scope or a DMM) the two to find the difference(s).
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Thanks avr300, I did try that, but a slip of the meter produced a loud crack & spark... and now a dead board.
So I'm going to have to look at this again when I have a bit more time.
Good news is that the Placid HD BP is sounding mighty fine in my DAC, definitely better and it replaced a pretty good sounding Placid BP.
I hope the Placid HD for the digital power has the same sort of improvements?
If so maybe I'll order another one for my WaveIO.
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I got a few new Placid HD's in the meantime (before I fix the broken one) and built and added them with no problems. So I now have one Placid HD for WaveIO, one for Buff 2 with new Tridents etc, and Placid HD BP for Legato. Before this I'd been using the previous version of the Placid power supplies, which I thought was pretty good. However these new supplies are quite a bit better, across the board as far as I can hear, so thank you very much TP.
I've spent quite a bit with TP in the past, but then again each upgrade has bought better sound, which is our goal and there are not many upgrades you can say that about.
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Did you monitor load of Placid with WaveIO? I wanted to try using it too, but WaveIO can consume from very little when idle up to 450mA in some cases! And setting current too low could be dangerous for XMOS chips, so i guess you need to make sure heatsinks are big enough to handle all that heat when WaveIO is inactive... Edited by user Saturday, October 11, 2014 8:51:37 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: AlexanderT Did you monitor load of Placid with WaveIO? I wanted to try using it too, but WaveIO can consume from very little when idle up to 450mA in some cases!
And setting current too low could be dangerous for XMOS chips, so i guess you need to make sure heatsinks are big enough to handle all that heat when WaveIO is inactive... Apologies ALexanderT, I've been away and not really focussing on HiFi. What I did was set the current to 410ma ish and then the shunt to approx 60ms, which I figured was what the shunt was for. The max I can play to test is 24/192Khz, but the shunt does not seem to get emptied - in fact it only changes a very small amount, so I may even have this set a bit high. Anyway configured like this the, now very tall, heatsinks on the BP HD get warm but not too warm that you can't keep your finger on them for a few seconds. OK a bit unscientific... Now I'm not sure if I'm starving the WaveIO of current, I don't think so as surely the measured shunt current would be low or 0ma? which it never does. Of course higher resolution music or differing formats may alter this. Perhaps Brian or others could comment.
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You certainly not starving your WaveIO. What i meant is that when WaveIO is not playing (idle) it's consumption may drop by a lot and all that current will get shunted and dissipated as heat via heatsinks.
But if difference is not too big and heatsinks are not too hot then you're good i guess.
I think i'l try it too since my older Placid HD is collecting dust atm. It's interesting to see if it will make noticeable difference compared to a simple 7805 based power source...
(BTW, just in case - when connecting WaveIO to Buffalo via isolated I2S make sure you connect isolated grounds to input ground as well)
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Handling these situations is why the heatsinks are as big as they are now. I am thinking, however, of switching back to 2" heatsinks, as I think they can handle most situations, and will fit more easily into cases.
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I've tested the height, and even with the included stand-offs and the 2.5" heatsinks the modules fit inside standard 2U enclosures. As the next step down for standard cases would likely be 1U or 1.5U, I doubt switching to the 2" heatsinks will improve the fit significantly.
And the temperature of a 2.5" heatsink reaches 65 degrees Celcius under moderate ambient temperatures already, just adjusting it for normal use. Wouldn't it be simpler to let the customer choose which heatsink he (or she) likes?
What cap will replace the Panasonic btw?
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The replacement for the Panasonic snap-in cap will most likely be the Cornell-Dubilier 381LX103M035A022. It has almost exactly the same specs. The price is slightly higher, but it should not affect kit prices.
I have a fairly large stock of the Panasonics at this point, so it will be a while before I switch over.
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