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feckie  
#1 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 10:40:49 AM(UTC)
feckie

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Hi Guys

I really need some help, i have finished soldering the placid HD and i am getting some really odd measurements when testing without load.

I have set the pots to the correct resistance but when moving the pots they do not adjust the voltage in anyway.

I am hoping that i am simply using the wrong setting on the DMM or a transistor is in the wrong way.


Have a look at the pictures and tell me what you think.

Note that the psu does not get hot at all.


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avr300  
#2 Posted : Friday, November 1, 2013 6:25:23 PM(UTC)
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First of all. You're supposed to measure across R1 and R2.

Forget the TP_GND1 and TP_GND2 - we don't need those right now.

Measure between TP_VIN+ and TP_CCS+ (mV) - reading:
Measure between TP_SHUNT+ and TP_OUT+ (mV) - reading:

Try turn VR1, can you change the above values ?
thanks 1 user thanked avr300 for this useful post.
feckie on 11/1/2013(UTC)
feckie  
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 2, 2013 10:09:45 AM(UTC)
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Thanks AVR300

this is what i am getting, as for changing the vr1 no changes happen when i adjust.

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avr300  
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 2, 2013 3:56:11 PM(UTC)
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Check all the transistors, both small and the big once at heat sinks. Are they all in the correct positions?
feckie  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 19, 2014 8:54:47 AM(UTC)
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Sorry avr300 been busy with getting married and stuff. I think the pcb is stuffed, tried originally using lead free silver solder and I was consistently getting frosted looking joints. So I resoldered using leaded solder most look fine (the pics i uploaded are the leaded ones) however some look like the pad has lifted.

So I'm thinking stuff it and get a new set they aren't that expensive.

Will post again in the following weeks.
avr300  
#6 Posted : Sunday, January 19, 2014 9:20:11 AM(UTC)
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I don't see any pad lifting. To me it looks ok.

Have you double checked all transistor (correct location) ?

Try uploade a good sharp (non-shaken) picture of the component side.
avr300  
#7 Posted : Sunday, January 19, 2014 9:21:37 AM(UTC)
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And by the way - congrats.
feckie  
#8 Posted : Sunday, January 19, 2014 10:12:30 AM(UTC)
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Thanks avr here are some better photos. The last one is from placid hd bp which looks the same

Anyway tell me if they workable or not



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avr300  
#9 Posted : Sunday, January 19, 2014 10:31:07 AM(UTC)
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Those two looks suspicious.

Again, pictures of component side (the other side)

edit: never mind the first one - that's ground (sorry).

Edited by user Sunday, January 19, 2014 10:32:47 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

avr300 attached the following image(s):
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cut2.JPG (25kb) downloaded 14 time(s).

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feckie  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, January 22, 2014 9:55:50 AM(UTC)
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Yeah the second picture you reposted is pretty bad, couldnt get it to solder properly after i desoldered it.

I have added some more photos of the top and bottom, maybe its salvagable maybe its not. But i dont mind ordering another set.

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Edited by user Wednesday, January 22, 2014 10:13:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Misleading

feckie  
#11 Posted : Friday, January 24, 2014 1:29:01 PM(UTC)
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Ordered another set, let you know how i go buddy.
avr300  
#12 Posted : Friday, January 24, 2014 4:23:54 PM(UTC)
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I don't see anything obvious.

As long as you ensure all transistors are in their correct positions.
Brian Donegan  
#13 Posted : Friday, January 24, 2014 4:43:52 PM(UTC)
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With the soldering and resoldering, it's quite possible the trimmers were overheated and killed.
feckie  
#14 Posted : Friday, January 24, 2014 11:22:06 PM(UTC)
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Hi Brian

If the trimmers were fried would I still see a change when I turn the dial and measure directly at the trim pot?
feckie  
#15 Posted : Friday, January 24, 2014 11:42:07 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: avr300 Go to Quoted Post
I don't see anything obvious.

As long as you ensure all transistors are in their correct positions.


I couldn't see anything either really, I double checked the qp and qn and they were all correct. I think Brian is right I really tried to get the lead free silver solder to work with multiple resoldering on many parts. As well I had to go to 390+ degrees to get some success.

I really did learn a lot through this kit but maybe I was doomed to fail when combining that this was my first go at soldering and I chose a solder that perhaps is not as easy as a normal leaded solder.

I remember so many times that I kept resoldering because I kept getting a frosted joint. Then after a while I switched to a leaded solder and the new joints looked fine.

So to gain some more experience I did an audiosector lm3875 kit which is now playing on my yamaha ns1000ms beautifully. For such a simple amp it really is keeping up with my weston acoustics kt120.


I will get this kit finished even if it kills me.

Also what usb to i2s would you recommend? Waveio perhaps?


avr300  
#16 Posted : Saturday, January 25, 2014 7:48:15 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: feckie Go to Quoted Post
Hi Brian

If the trimmers were fried would I still see a change when I turn the dial and measure directly at the trim pot?


No. At least not within the specification of the trimpot (0-20k ohm)

With the trimpot in-circuit it is more difficult to measure due to the fact that the whole circuit affect the measured value. But you will still be able to measure a change when trimming.

When you get the replacement kit up and running it would be easy to measure and compare the two to find the glitch.

usb to i2s - I don't know, I'm using SPDIF only.
feckie  
#17 Posted : Saturday, January 25, 2014 2:22:05 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: avr300 Go to Quoted Post
Originally Posted by: feckie Go to Quoted Post



When you get the replacement kit up and running it would be easy to measure and compare the two to find the glitch.



i was thinking that as well and if by chance we can fix the glitch whatever it may be then i will have no choice but to upgrade it to mono Dancing
feckie  
#18 Posted : Monday, February 10, 2014 9:42:20 AM(UTC)
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Well i have completed the new set and they work like a charm, resoldered the questionable ones and they work fine :).

These spare PSUs will be used for the USB to I2S controller so i dont feel like i lost out much.

I will no doubt create another thread about using a sidecar, S/PDIF 4 and waveio ;)

Thanks for your help guys much appreciated.
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