Hows this look?

Wrong thread :)

Edited by user Friday, June 7, 2013 10:54:01 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Like this ?

Hmm, 24volts, that adds extra costs which I was hoping to avoid, ie, 24volt charger. I have an endless supply of (free)12v deep cycle batteries so that helps a lot cost wise, they are all 2 years old but in excellent condition.

The batteries fully charged (which they will be most of the time) give 13.2V If I connect on the other side of the bridge I forgo the 1.2v voltage drop from the diodes so I can't be far off the voltage that the transformer is giving.

If it gets too difficult I may just stick with the full wave inverter & run the easy things from the batteries.

Thanks for the help.

As this would be permanently hooked up I would need a 24volt charger to go with my 12volt charger. I would end up with 2 x 24volt banks for the BP then a 12volt for the rest & the inverter that would be needed for the amps & crossover.

My Linkwitz ASP crossover runs from a 12V BP SMPS so for that to be battery I would probably need 2x12v batteries setup in a BP configuration like my first image. That be another bank of batteries.

Of course the Squeezebox Touch needs 5v.

Things quickly get complicated :)

I think I'll start with the inverter & a single 12v & 5v supply from the batteries & add to that as I go.

Edited by user Monday, June 10, 2013 3:41:32 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

No you don't. Use 3 wires for access to each pole. You get 24V on the ends, but still have 12V by using the centre. Easy and cheap.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean but I'll ponder on it.

So are you saying I dont need a 24v charger & I can pull 12v & 24v from the batteries at the same time wired like my first image?

If I dont need a 24v charger how would I wire the charger to the 2 x 12v batteries that will be wired in series to get the 24vs

Edited by user Tuesday, June 11, 2013 12:08:28 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Thanks

I'll do some testing & draw some diagrams, I know you might find this hard to believe (or maybe not :) ) but I'm still not completely clear on this subject but I figure if I connect some batteries together & have a play with the DMM it will help.
thanks again.

I finally got time to sort out the battery power supply, at this stage it's going through the Inverter. When I get a few other things out of the way I'll look at going battery direct to components.

Because the noise in my electricity supply is so tenacious I have rigged up 2 relays to disconnect the battery charger completely from the power supply, (disconnect active, neutral & earth) during normal listening hours. Generally the noise only starts at about 5 in the afternoon & is spasmodic throughout the night.

The system is, timer to switch relays, relays to disconnect battery charger from power, battery charger, batteries & finally the inverter.

I get the batteries for free, they are all about 2 years old & done light duties, if one die's another one's not far away.
Each battery is rated at 12AH therefore there is 48AH in each box. I have made the boxes stackable.

The brass threaded rod on the top box runs through the box so it mates with the brass threaded rod on the bottom box and theoretically they don't need to be connected in any other way as the current runs through the threaded rod.

The standard method of connecting multiple batteries in parallel is to daisy chain them, but in my research on the subject that method appears to have serious short comings. Apparently the first battery in the line gets the life sucked out of it & the AH supplied by the following batteries drops off rapidly, ie by the time the first battery is dead the last battery has only given half it's charge. This is only applicable once you have 3 or more batteries. The go is to try & connect them all to one point & keep the leads the same length, because miniscule (so I read) differences in resistance make big differences in performance.