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Sand it down or drill it out. A lathe is the perfect tool for this kind of work.
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Ok I've finally got the case I want to use, and have just put everything inside. All the voltages I can think of measuring are ok, but unfortunately now the LOCK led blinks on and off all the time. I can hear sound for a second, then noise, then nothing, then sound again. I tried replacing the wiring to/from the toslink module, but that made no difference. Everything was fine before I put it into the case, could I have broken something? I have also hooked up connectors for coax and aes/ebu, unfortunately I don't have a cable for coax even though I think my sound card has coax out, and I have no aes/ebu source. Here are a few high res pictures: www.templar.dk/pictures/buffalo/progress1.jpgwww.templar.dk/pictures/buffalo/progress2.jpg
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Ok update:
I tried connecting the toslink module directly to the BIII, and it works perfectly.
Also, I tried it without the sidecar, and changed the wiring (except for the flat cables), and that still gave the problem.
So from this, I assume that the problem is either in the 4xspdif board or in one of the flat cables. I'll try making some new flat cables and see what happens.
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It's fairly straight forward to test the cables, by checking continuity from pin to pin on each board. You also want to confirm isolation from adjacent pins, but that is a less typical problem with these connectors.
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zhai wrote:MatthiasP: That's what I'd like to know too =] I saw that you figured it out in another thread - how did you end up wiring it? Is it correctly understood that I need to wire it like this:  So if I wire it like this, it should switch to the I2S signal when position 1 of the 2bit-switch is selected? And what about the termination of the 1st position of the 4xspdif board when I'm using position 1 for usb I2S? Should I leave the resistor position open? Also, I assume that I should just solder the rotary selector to the board at every pin, right? Would it be a bad idea to wire the single ended outputs on the Legato to both a headphone jack on the front, and to a couple of terminals on the back of the dac? Will this introduce any problems? Doesnt the LED terminal have 1.9v since the Buffalo Mux terminal is 3.3v and then thru a dropping resistor? 1.9v is not enough to trigger the 5v relay. Edited by user Tuesday, January 24, 2012 5:04:33 PM(UTC)
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It only needs to trigger the transistor, which in turn drives the relay.
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Brian Donegan wrote:It only needs to trigger the transistor, which in turn drives the relay. I see that now.... That's weird since mine doesn't work, voltage is good. It will switch when I jump it to the 5v terminal Is 10K resistor correct? Does not appear to have enough current to switch the transistor on. I paralleled a 5k with the 10K and it turned on. With the 10K its pulling about .06ma across the resistor. Shouldn't this be around 3k or so to trigger with 1.9v on a BC639? Did you change the transistor recently? Edited by user Wednesday, January 25, 2012 5:21:45 PM(UTC)
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It should be around 1-2K. It is there just to protect the base from seeing too much current. Edited by user Thursday, January 26, 2012 9:09:15 AM(UTC)
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This wasn't really what we had in mind when putting the kit together (driving the trigger from the switch board). 10K works great for triggering from the Sidecar itself or a logic level controller (3.3V - 5V). This is sort of a custom application.
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Yes, just to be clear to the poster my suggestion was to say that for that(1.9V) voltage 1-2K would likely be better. Though 1-2K would work fine for even 5V
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Russ White wrote:Yes, just to be clear to the poster my suggestion was to say that for that(1.9V) voltage 1-2K would likely be better. Though 1-2K would work fine for even 5V If that's the case, I would ship these with 2k which gives the option to connect to the 4way switch using one of the LED legs. When using the relays this also adds a few ma to the power supply of the B3 when sidecar is powered thru the ribbon cable. If using a separate PS for sidecar, should we isolate the 5v PS from ribbon cable by cutting a trace on board.
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No need to do that, just cut those conductors on the ribbon, or just leave them off :)
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I thought everything was finished (except for a bit of secondary troubleshooting), and I had also built my ncore amp. After seeing some sparks while connecting some ncore modules, I was a bit scared, and when I connected the buffalo to the ncore and powered it on, I heard loud bangs from both speakers, followed by a few seconds of silence, and then a new bang before I could shut off the amp. I thought the modules were toast, sent them for RMA, but got them back with the message that they were completely fine.
I asked about this on diyaudio, and I got the advice to add some output caps to the legato. I have no idea how to even begin about doing this. Any advice? I reassembled the ncore, and everything is ok so far, with speakers on and power, but no source yet.
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Ok it turns out balanced outputs are far too complicated for me to handle... I discovered that I had switched pins 1 and 2 on the xlr inputs on the power amp. So the plus of the ncore was connected to gnd on the legato, and gnd of ncore to plus on legato.
So I connected everything for the first time since I got the ncore back (and was told nothing was wrong with it), disconnected the gnd on legato from the xlr outputs, powered up - and the only thing coming out of the speakers was a low buzz.
So now I'm considering if I have burned the balanced outputs on legato? The s/e output works fine. Any way to check if the balanced out is healthy? Or any other possible cause of the thing about nothing getting out of the speakers but a faint buzz? The buzz disappears when the ncore is not connected to the buffalo.
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If the SE output is working the balanced output should be ok. How do you have your XLRs connected? Any chance you could post pics?
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Picture 1Picture 2Picture 3I'm a bit confused about the necessity of dc blocking caps for the ncore, as I've heard both that it's necessary and that it's not, so I tried with the gnd connected, which is also shown on the above pictures. This was the first time I actually got sound from my ncore! Unfortunately, only the right channel gave any sound, the left just buzzed a bit. And the sound was cut off by a click and a few seconds of silence, then music again, then silence again, etc. And the music parts became shorter and shorter. I'm in way over my head right now, hopefully this issue is something relatively easily identifiable.
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Could you make a few good pictures of the Legato (top and bottom)? I think you may have a few bad solder joints, as it seems the problem increases with the temperature of the board.
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Ok are these good enough: pic1pic2pic3pic4Is there anything else I can do to narrow down the problem?
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Have you tried output caps yet?
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I'm not so sure about the caps. I'm 100% sure the UCD modules already have caps, and I'm above 90% sure the NCore modules also have them. So it's very unlikely that would be your problem, provided the right half did give good sound.
From the pictures it looks like you've pushed in less solder than I would like to see for my own work. Given your problems I think reworking the Legato would be a good first step.
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