Atom Feed - Twisted Pear Audio Support - Topic:Power Inlet Filter - Which Ampère - 20Twisted Pear Audio Support - Atom Feedurn:twistedpearaudio-com:AtomFeed:TwistedPearAudioSupport:Topic:PowerInletFilter-WhichAmpere-20:1Copyright 2024 Twisted Pear Audio Support2024-03-29T12:34:16Zhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/Images/YAFLogo.pngForum Adminhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.comfeedback@twistedpearaudio.commusicmanhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/8035-musicmanmusicmanhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/8035-musicmanrepelsteeltjehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/25795-repelsteeltjeLeonvBhttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/2435-LeonvBrepelsteeltjehttp://www.twistedpearaudio.com/forum/profile/25795-repelsteeltjeYetAnotherForum.NETurn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid20674:1Power Inlet Filter - Which Ampère<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>The schulter connector with two fuses ( 1.6A ) completely ruin the sound in my B IIIse with large trafo's. Loss of dynamics and no musicality at all.</td></tr></table>2014-02-28T20:33:33-07:002014-02-28T20:33:33-07:00musicman<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>The schulter connector with two fuses ( 1.6A ) completely ruin the sound in my B IIIse with large trafo's. Loss of dynamics and no musicality at all.</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid19521:1Power Inlet Filter - Which Ampère<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Leon thank you for the quick reply. I was looking for the reasoning behind the chosen power inlet, and that is exactly what you gave me. I readily admit I am no expert and my logical reasoning only goes so far. I wanted to make sure I did not miss any important points that should be taken into consideration when chosing the right power inlet.<br /><br />Thank you once more!</td></tr></table>2013-06-19T19:32:00-07:002013-06-19T19:32:00-07:00repelsteeltje<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Leon thank you for the quick reply. I was looking for the reasoning behind the chosen power inlet, and that is exactly what you gave me. I readily admit I am no expert and my logical reasoning only goes so far. I wanted to make sure I did not miss any important points that should be taken into consideration when chosing the right power inlet.<br /><br />Thank you once more!</td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid19520:1Power Inlet Filter - Which Ampère<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I selected the inlet based on convenience and safety: it has an inlet plus a built-in fuse holder (which is the minimum I would recommend). The built-in fuse holder makes it relatively simple to mount in the rear, while it's also very safe to use: you can't forget to use a fuse or wire the fuse holder the wrong way. And if you use the suggested isolated fastons it's virtually impossible to touch a live wire even with the case open. Plus it's a relatively easy to obtain and affordable solution. The filter is something I could live without, but it can be handy for some people. It has an on/off button which makes it easy to shutdown your equipment plus with this button it's easy to meet the safety requirements/regulations.<br /><br />I changed to the medical version based on the filter: someone pointed out the standard version could cause problems when used ungrounded. Regarding the rating: since this is DIY I do not know exactly what you will put behind this inlet: it could be you're building an 8 channel DAC+class A amp combo. But with the rating it has I'm pretty sure the inlet will not be your problem, and all you have to upgrade is the fuse. And yes, the 10A version has less filtering but if you really need the additional mains filtering of the 1 or 2A version I'd suggest looking at the utility company or means of filtering your entire house. </td></tr></table>2013-06-19T18:16:24-07:002013-06-19T18:16:24-07:00LeonvB<table class="content postContainer_Alt" width="100%"><tr><td>I selected the inlet based on convenience and safety: it has an inlet plus a built-in fuse holder (which is the minimum I would recommend). The built-in fuse holder makes it relatively simple to mount in the rear, while it's also very safe to use: you can't forget to use a fuse or wire the fuse holder the wrong way. And if you use the suggested isolated fastons it's virtually impossible to touch a live wire even with the case open. Plus it's a relatively easy to obtain and affordable solution. The filter is something I could live without, but it can be handy for some people. It has an on/off button which makes it easy to shutdown your equipment plus with this button it's easy to meet the safety requirements/regulations.<br /><br />I changed to the medical version based on the filter: someone pointed out the standard version could cause problems when used ungrounded. Regarding the rating: since this is DIY I do not know exactly what you will put behind this inlet: it could be you're building an 8 channel DAC+class A amp combo. But with the rating it has I'm pretty sure the inlet will not be your problem, and all you have to upgrade is the fuse. And yes, the 10A version has less filtering but if you really need the additional mains filtering of the 1 or 2A version I'd suggest looking at the utility company or means of filtering your entire house. </td></tr></table>urn:twistedpearaudio-com:ftPosts:st1:meid19519:1Power Inlet Filter - Which Ampère<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Hi all,<br /><br />Currently building the casing around my Buffalo DAC. With regard to the power connector a schulter connector is advised with fuse and medical filter. This particular filter is for up to 10A. Had some discussion about this... would it not be better to use a 2A filter for example, closer to the actual electric current during operation?<br /><br />Any thoughts about this? Or am I starting a hot debate all over again?<br /><br />Many thanks in advance!</td></tr></table>2013-06-19T13:27:37-07:002013-06-19T13:27:37-07:00repelsteeltje<table class="content postContainer" width="100%"><tr><td>Hi all,<br /><br />Currently building the casing around my Buffalo DAC. With regard to the power connector a schulter connector is advised with fuse and medical filter. This particular filter is for up to 10A. Had some discussion about this... would it not be better to use a 2A filter for example, closer to the actual electric current during operation?<br /><br />Any thoughts about this? Or am I starting a hot debate all over again?<br /><br />Many thanks in advance!</td></tr></table>